Paris Fashion Week SS16: Maison Margiela

Paris Fashion Week SS16: Maison Margiela

Superheroes and geishas

Text: Andrea Sim

John Galliano's tribe of superheroes and geishas took to the runway decked out in an expertly deconstructed spring collection made up of silver lamé, fishnet and neoprene

The looks: Notions and conventions of fabrics were challenged as John Galliano teased them apart to serve up a novel representation of materials. Appliquéd glass fragments on tops were overlaid by mesh; fishnet formed tops and were styled over stockings; and neoperene and 'liquid fabric' (look 21) gave shape to kimono-inspired ensembles with ropes for obis. 

Hair and makeup: Makeup artist Pat McGrath was responsible for the silver superhero 'eye masks' and geisha makeup (painted faces and lips intentionally not fully coloured in). Beehives, croissant fringes, wind tunnel blowouts and shower cap hairstyles — some models had their updos literally encased in plastic — were also the order of the day. 

Something you might have missed: Black and silver brocade as the base to one of Galliano's glass fragment collages, the rich fabric almost fully obscured by the embellishments and layered mesh (look 7). 

Buro loves: His interpretation of the rock 'n' roll chick. The Courtney Love breed on acid had all the quintessential bad girl sartorial tropes: Fishnet, silver lamé and leopard print (on coat collars). Except, their get-ups were not hidden finds from the corner second-hand shop, but creations whipped up by the brilliant mind of Galliano infused with the maison's avant-garde design code. 

I spy: Paillettes, grommets and safety pins appliquéd in chaotic perfection on a kimono-print neoprene sweatshirt doused with paint (look 21). 

To view the full collection, click on the gallery below.

For all coverage of Paris Fashion Week SS16, click here