Paris Fashion Week: Christian Dior, A.W.A.K.E, Anrealage, Ottolinger and Koché set the tone for spring/summer 2019
TWO MOST SURPRISING MOMENTS
- In a black box within the Hippodrome Longchamp, a major horse racecourse in Paris where most of us expected equestrian overtones, Maria Chiuri Grazia opened her spring/summer 2019 runway at Dior with a riveting ballet performance by Sharon Egal and eight of her most talented dancers. It was not a question of bodily perfection, but of flexibility, strength and movement, said Egal. The same sentiments followed suit in Grazia's collection which shed the stiff Bar jackets for far softer shapes, pushing the agility of the female body in the spotlight.
- You have to be somebody (or know a powerful somebody) to get a ticket to a runway show at Paris Fashion Week. To get a front row seat, that's like winning a golden ticket to the Willie Wonka Chocolate Factory of the fashion world. But a certain kid makes it look like nothing, as he munches on candy bracelets at the Koché show.
FOUR TRENDIEST ACCESSORIES
- Maria Chiuri Grazia told the press that "the gestures of contemporary dance have all stimulated my imagination." We bear witness to her inspiration in the layered jersey tank tops and tulle skirts, and we definitely see a reflection of the flit in her footwear.
- Certainly, the commercial versions of Anrealage's chandelier headpieces won't nearly be as elaborate as those parlayed on the runway. Still, we love the idea of an OTT topper that isn't a tiara.
- By now, the arm candy stack is old news. Anrealage's multi-shape plexi stack, however, keeps things interesting. They remind us of the glittering Bollywood bangles, except these are clear and influenced by modern architecture, not unlike the rest of the brand's spring/summer 2019 offering.
- We won't judge anyone who repurposes their silver cooler bags between picnics as handbags, thanks to Ottolinger. Best thing is, your cold cola will stay chill for hours, something your exotic skin carriers cannot guarantee.
SEVEN FAVOURITE LOOKS
- Christian Dior look #38: Dior's Bar jacket takes a bit of a backseat in spring/summer 2019. Though Maria Grazia Chiuri swaps the harsh shape of the house icon in favour of softer silhouettes, the house signatures are still omnipresent, especially in the sleeveless blazer cinched with a skinny CD belt, accessorised with an even skinnier mini monogram Saddle bag. Punk references found their way in, via a fishnet top and (surprise, surprise) cargo pants.
- Christian Dior look #52: A few years ago, we never would have entertained the thought of tie-dye at Dior, but the comeback trend (also spotted at Prada) is in line with Maria Chiuri Grazia's rapid modernisation of Dior. After last season's patchwork suede and 2016's statement T-shirts, nothing could shock us anymore.
- A.W.A.K.E. look #3: Little black dresses and little white dresses come and go every spring season, therefore it is that much harder for designers to capture our attention with them, much less leave an impression worth recounting. With its on-trend exposed brasserie (previously seen at Marni) and handkerchief skirt (Salvatore Ferragamo offered some too), smartly cinched with a utilitarian money bag belt, A.W.A.K.E. cements it's status as an American up-and-comer to watch.
- A.W.A.K.E. look #24: Another trend that has been done to death: deconstructed shirts. Another trend that has been done right by A.W.A.K.E.: deconstructed shirts. Its collar transplant could have been pointlessly risqué, but here it's saved by excellent construction and smart design elevating an otherwise forgettable work-to-party blouse.
- Anrealage look #14: The number of hours and the amount of know-how it took to create this sequin cascade of a dress is directly proportional to how impressed we are by the Japanese Anrealage.
- Anrealage look #24: To describe this as a military jacket and trousers ensemble would be doing it unjust. Designer Kunihiko Morinaga is so technically adept with fabrics that he fused a soldier's shirt with checked nylon and made it look like the former is melting and disintegrating to the latter. Unreal.
- Ottolinger look #27: From afar, the sartorially driven lace separates (we're barely describing it, we know) look like a summery bikini version of an S&M suit. Upon closer inspection, you'll notice the jade linked in the ropes, the brand name expertly hidden in the paisley embroidery and the triple-toned piping in black, white and beige, woven just so you can barely tell where one ends and the other begins. God really is in the details.