Paris Fashion Week: Celine, Christian Wijnants, Lutz Huelle and Yohji Yamamoto rocked the spring/summer 2019 season
In our new fashion week round-up, fashion editor Jolene Khor reports from the ground, the best-ofs of the day in 2s, 4s, and 7s — of surprising moments, trendy accessories and favourite looks from the runway
TWO MOST SURPRISING MOMENTS
- Despite the commotion inside and outside the venue, Celine attempted to keep waiting times to a minimum - an applaudable attempt. While a show of that magnitude could easily surmount to an hour-long delay, the PA system came on at 15 minutes past scheduled showtime urging everyone to take their seats. Not long after, a pair of drummer boys emerged, setting up a beat for Hedi Slimane's debut at the French house.
- How many slinky mini dresses does a collection need? If you ask Hedi Slimane, the answer is a lot. Gone are the reinvented suits and womanly separates from Phoebe Philo's era; the new Celine girl is the life of the party, the talk of the town, even if she's not the most inventive nor stylistically intellectual among her peers. One editor was seething during her scathing review. "I didn't sign up for Courtney Love," she said between cigarette puffs, while another remarked that the collection was pretty though astray from the beloved Celine DNA of the past. Our opinion lies squarely in between the two.
FOUR TRENDIEST ACCESSORIES
- The styling was for the most part of the predictable kind at Celine, with the exception of the fascinator paired with Hedi Slimane's signature skinny suit on women. What we'd like to see is the headpiece reinvented for the opposite sex, even if it's for pure shock factor. At least it would look good in magazine pages. We needed something, you know?
- Cute as the Celine velvet slogan clutch is, there are doubts it'll bring back the naughties bag of choice. Watch this space for updates on the inspiration behind the beaded rhyming words.
- White boots, especially the cowboy sort, are making strides this fall/winter. The following season sees the trend take a side step at Christian Wijnants. Boots are still relevant in warmer weather, colourways then adapted for the sun - baby blues, apple greens, and tangerine are much welcomed.
- Another weather-based appropriation? Knitted gloves at Yohji Yamamoto (logo on display) on the left hand, and sporty elbow guard on the right, in theme with the undone classic to Yamamoto.
SEVEN FAVOURITE LOOKS
- Celine look #1: Truth: picking out two out of 96 looks that would make the cut in this list was a tough job. And it's not because there were so many outstanding ones we were hard pressed at narrowing down a couple of favourites; the problem was precisely the opposite. Despite Saint Laurent vibes, we nod carefully to the OTT polka dot bow mini dress for it sparked hope for intriguing silhouettes. The rest as they say, went downhill from here.
- Celine look #89: Many a glittering thigh-grazing dress came before #89. Most belong in the rock-and-roll groupie genre: safe for nights out, not so safe for the sharp tongues of the fashion crowd. This ensemble passes thanks to the exaggerated crop of the blazer, and the balloon sleeve which should have seen repeats in earlier outfits.
- Christian Wijnants look #20: Two things we know. One: Christian Wijnants loves a good floral. Two: Christian Wijnants loves a good check. Naturally, his best spring/summer 2019 looks feature one or the other. He's a little more adventurous with the latter this time around, displayed by his willingness to explore with more patterns and colourways. Though he adheres to the three hue rule here (to never put more than three variants together, for the sake of cohesion) he breaks it more often than he abides by it. Also, this is the first sarong we've seen for 2019 and we're not sure why designers don't whip them out more. Totes fetching.
- Christian Wijnants look #35: Similar to Manish Arora, Wijnants is too urging for leopard prints this coming summer. Less wild child and more sophisticated revolutionist, the designer from Antwerp morphs his spots to appear like florals (or is the flora masquerading as leopard?) making his closing dresses a Rorschach test of sorts. Having trouble seeing it? Squint your eyes.
- Lutz Huelle look #20: Individually, the pieces in this pretty tomboy get-together are hardly revolutionary; it's the styling here that score top marks. Next time we wear our hoodie under a belted dress with generous sleeves, you'll know where we got the idea from.
- Yohji Yamamoto look #15: Neither a leopard nor Yohji Yamamoto change their stripes. There's no need. When you've got your modus operandi down, you spend your life perfecting it, tweaking it for the times, elevating it for the audience. The Japanese designer's effort in subtle feminization of his clothes, without sacrificing his aptitude for contorted silhouettes, pays off. Pre-order submitted.
- Yohji Yamamoto look #22: The height of the beauty in Yamamoto's fashion is at base of that of other designers: his cuts. Hardly is a decision too small to warrant his full participation - how the rushing is to be done at the pelvic and not the waist, when the drape of the cotton is to extend from the nape to the right boob and all the way back to the lower back, whether to leave the rest of the garment sheer, are major contributions that make up an unmistakably Yohji piece.
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