Show review: Highlights from Paris Couture spring 2016 — Day 1

Show review: Highlights from Paris Couture spring 2016 — Day 1

Paris couture fashion week

Text: Norman Tan

As the sun sets on Paris men’s fashion week, Haute Couture kicks off with a powerful and athletic offering from Atelier Versace

Inspiration: "I believe women can be powerful and achieve their dreams while also having great elegance and beauty," said Donatella Versace. "This is a collection for all women who walk their own path."

Soundtrack: A specially written track by underground musician Violet in response to the collection — energetic, empowering and evocative: I open my mind, so I can let the whole world in / I move to the beat of my own drum / I sing my own melody...

The collection: Sexy and bold athletic couture. True to form, Donatella showcased her love for cut-out dresses and statement minis, but this time, reinterpreted through the lens of performance wear. Design elements native to the sports world were evident in the yellow and orange harness-like straps found on the opening white-on-white rounded jackets (looks 1 & 2); interlocking panes like functional sportswear found in the svelte Smoking suit (look 10); and the ergonomic lines (celebrating the fit female form) emphasised in the bright yellow, almost gladiatorial, mini-dress worn by newcomer Yasmin Wijnaldum (look 32). As a leitmotif, ropes of iridescent Swarovski crystal were used to bold and control cutouts on garments; be it the orange skin-tight dress worn by Joan Smalls (look 39) or the closing black tuxedo carried off by Gigi Hadid (look 44).

Jewellery collection: Fluid necklaces cast in white diamonds that appear to drip off the skin like water, as well as earrings and bracelets with red rubies that circle plissé lines of diamonds reminiscent of origami or fans.

FROW: The fashion cognoscenti and a radiant Rita Ora in a barely there orange cut-out mini-dress by Atelier Versace.