Best shows from Paris Couture spring 2017 Day 2: Chanel and Giorgio Armani Privé
Paris couture fashion week
CHANEL: COCO'S HOUSE OF MIRRORS
The venue: The Grand Palais in Paris was transformed into a vision of elegance yesterday morning, in time to host Chanel's latest haute couture outing — a feat of calm elegance, modern power suits and timeless feminine strength. Instead of preparing an opulent set with bold gimmicks, the spring 2017 catwalk conjured the spirit of Coco Chanel — and the mirrored landmark at the centre of a fashion empire. It was obvious her Art Deco mirrored staircase leading up to the ateliers at 31 Rue Cambon was this season's set influence, with its gleaming surfaces alive with reflections of the white calla lilies scattered around this temporary house of mirrors.
The collection: Power Suit, meet the Power Belt. Almost every look seemed to have been accessorised with the collection's hot item — a thick metallic belt and square buckle that accentuated the models' slender waists, and often created a neat empire line. This look was pure class in a collection of top-notch elegance (something we can always expect from Mr. Lagerfeld, but this season was beyond expectations).
From the mirrored walls to the signature tweed-and-pearls pairings, this collection offered a myriad of classic Chanel obsessions. We had tailoring, we had the Chanel suit (the mother to all Power Suits), and we had impeccable French luxury at its finest — the very heritage of this iconic label.
Favourite looks: This collection was absolutely filled with tantalising creations, which toward the end of the show flaunted ostrich and marabou feathers and sparkling silver sequins (looks 51, 53, 55, 59, 61 & 63) — all pretenders for our spring 2017 favourites. Honestly, Karl, you could give us these pastel and checkered suits all day, any day; throw in a thick metallic belt, an occasional pearl ankle bracelet or two, and you're good to go (looks 1-3).
The bride: A fixture in the Chanel couture show, every season we find a new budding beauty cast as the couture bride. This season, it was the fresh faced Lily-Rose Depp (daughter of daughter of Johnny Depp and Vanessa Paradis), who closed the show in layers of blush-pink ruffles in lieu of the traditional white gown (look 66). What a vision!
GIORGIO ARMANI PRIVÉ: ORANGE PERSUASION
The collection: Everyone's been saying it these days, but orange is definitely the new black (especially if Giorgio Armani has anything to say about it). His Armani Privé spring 2017 couture collection boasted all hues of the orange persuasion. At first a bizarre combination but it didn't take long to warm up to this hot new colour.
Known for his understated and rather demure designs, Armani's choice to feature such a bold tone like this was a major shift from seasons past (though spring 2016 was all about mauve). This time, however, it was almost all monochrome, with fiery oranges, cool corals and bright citrus tones playing clever counterparts in a series of signature peak-shouldered jackets, printed silk dresses and one mesmerising crystal-embroidered dress.
The celebs: The front row at this season's show was packed full with inimitable style, talent and beauty — and we're just talking about actresses Nicole Kidman and Isabelle Huppert (both of whom are currently nominated for Oscars). Perhaps one of these lovely leading ladies will be sporting an Armani Privé spring 2017 creation for her next red carpet appearance.
Favourite looks: Whenever sending out a collection of jarring colour options, it seems like a smart idea to place a few familiar pieces throughout, in order to refresh the guests' visual experience; and that's exactly what Armani did. From the beginning, he offered several signature peak-shouldered jackets (looks 1-5, 7) to introduce us to the season's new bold hue, before sending out an orange alligator statement jacket (look 9) and billowing auburn arrangements (looks 13, 15 & 44). Toward the end of the show, he would again supply us with a momentary reprieve in the form of six black numbers — most of them easy to love and instant favourites (particularly looks 27, 28, 29, 30 & 32).
SEE YOU TOMORROW:
Check back tomorrow for our daily coverage of the Paris Haute Couture spring/summer 2017 shows.
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