Best shows from NYFW SS18 Day 3: Tory Burch, Jason Wu, Cushnie et Ochs and Jeremy Scott
New York Fashion Week
TORY BURCH: TEA PARTY
The collection: Taking a leaf from the book of celebrated interior designer David Hicks, Tory Burch was inspired by his eye for graphical wallpapers and focused on prints in her latest collection. Dresses featured octagons (look 3), pinstripes (look 8), and kaleidoscopic patterns (look 11). Classic shapes came to the fore in the form of loose trousers, but were contrasted by the off-kilter styling of a terrycloth kaftan (look 14) lopped over. The collection also sung with Burch's love for details — metal flower pendants (looks 10, 13 & 19) and pockets lined with lace.
Set design: The manicured lawns and stone statues of an Upper East Side museum terrace transformed the runway into a real-time garden party.
Worth the investment: The designer's take on the oversized tote bag trend (look 36).
JASON WU: FLIRTY FEMININITY
The collection: Light, saccharine, and whimsical — all adjectives befitting of Jason Wu's latest spring 2018 outing. Prints of tropical birds (looks 21, 24 & 25), pinstripes (looks 1, 2 & 4) and pink (looks 2, 3 & 30) were featured heavily this year, rendered in the designer's signature flowy, feminine cuts. Wu is attempting to bring back the statement dress, by way of a curious Dalmatian print (looks 16 & 18) and asymmetrical cut-outs (looks 25, 26 & 27).
I spy: Plenty of sheer panelling and diaphanous plissé dresses, a motivation to hit the gym in preparation for summer 2018.
Something you might have missed: Notice the bold, winged eyeliner that every model is sporting? The models' looks were tweaked to incorporate a little graphic eye treatment at the very last minute.
CUSHNIE ETS OCHS: ARTFUL DEBUT
The collection: Designers Carlie Cushnie and Michelle Ochs drew upon the bold style of feminist icon Frida Kahlo this season. Pops of tropical prints (looks 13 & 14) were contrasted against black and white, then elevated by structured ruffle collars and bell sleeves. The duo's SS18 runway also served as the launching pad for the brand's first footwear line; the floral babouche slides (look 16) and pared-back metallic stilettos (looks 20) are arguably the best styles of the lot.
Buro loves: The 3D floral appliqué on the black over-the-knee boots (look 1) is a hint at the designers' artistic inspiration.
Something you might have missed: Bathing suits were styled with ready-to-wear. For example, the unassuming navy one-piece tucked into a pair of high-waisted trousers (look 22).
JEREMY SCOTT: TWO DECADES OF CRAZY
The collection: Ever since Jeremy Scott turnt up in Paris back in 1997, the designer aligned his reputation with campy, over-the-top ensembles inspired by pop culture. So, what better way to mark his 20th anniversary than doing what he does best? Neon jumpers bore prints of cartoon aliens (looks 11 & 33), mesh, army print (looks 17, 21 and 22) and black bodysuits were trimmed with oversized costume jewellery (looks 49, 50 and 51). This is "more is more" at its best. One ensemble truly held nothing back: A sheer, neon-yellow jumpsuit (look 28) showered with copius ruffles and a hood — with a long train trailing — resembling a Komodo dragon.
Buro loves: Scott's individuality and audacity.
Try this now: Break out a neon cartoon-inspired jumper the next time you're headed to a rave. A little kitsch can't hurt.
Catch up on all coverage of New York Fashion Week spring/summer 2018.