Best shows from NYFW SS17 Days 1 & 2: Tom Ford and Thakoon
New York Fashion Week
TOM FORD: DIAL UP THE DRAMA
The collection: In a time where buzz surrounds the designers who move away from orthodox beauty, it takes a true stalwart to know his guns and stick to it. Floor-length silhouettes (look 5), molten metal chokers (looks 12 & 42) and fur-lined shawl coats (looks 13 & 43) coasted down the Tom Ford runway, a sumptuous medley loaded with sequins and texturised with fringing — drenched in so much sparkle (looks 1, 45 & 50) it deserved its own Disney show. Beyond the clothes, there were no frills and none of that new-fangled gimmicky antics; just unabashed glamour with a touch of panache. When the clock runs out on slogan hoodies, this is the man you'll be looking for: A classicist by the name of Mr Tom Ford.
The set: Located at the core of New York's old money district, Ford's presentation at the Seagram Building took place over dinner. Ever the gentleman with impeccable manners, the designer made sure to feed the guests first — before dishing out his shimmering garb.
What you might not know: While the show calendar is on to the spring 2017 season, this was in fact Ford's FW16 presentation. Recalibrating the brand's show and retail schedules, ready-to-wear is now up for grabs on TomFord.com, and seguing into physical stores as we speak.
Shop the collection now.
THAKOON: GLAMMED UP GRUNGE
The collection: Paying homage to nonconventional standards of beauty à la French artist Jean Dubuffet, Thakoon took autumn layering to the next level by piling on the staples (think: Flannels, pea coats, and cardigans) in an almost organised-mess fashion. The Wintour-favourite dubbed this collection "raw glamour", with its hints of grunge in the form of plaid, lace, and dark floral print. Heavy knits were used not as a base, but as a focal point (looks 5, 10, 14, 18 & 25) as they were draped artfully on models who traipsed against the Manhattan skyline. Truncated blazers (looks 1, 8 & 13) were seen alongside oversized tartan outerwear (looks 28 & 30), creating dimensions of contrast every wardrobe needs.
Try this now: Layer your lace négligée under chunky knits (looks 15, 18, 25 & 26) for major effortless points and a touch of peek-a-boo sexiness. An unexpected take on the slip dress trend, Thakoon has issued his decree on going vampy — yet cosy — for fall.
What you might not know: Similar to Ford, Thakoon has taken on a show-now-buy-now model, which means zero waiting time for these pieces to drop online. By bringing the runway to real-time retail, you’ll have these pieces at your doorstep by the time fall rolls around — which is about now.