Best shows from NYFW: Men's FW17 Day 3: John Elliott and Raf Simons
New York Fashion Week: Men's
JOHN ELLIOTT: POINT, SHOOT, SCORE
The inspiration: The thing about most designers at New York Fashion Week: Men's is that they take to the runway simply to showcase their new collections. No fanfare, no drama, nada. Which is why designer John Elliott's opener of a marching band made the bang it intended to yesterday. A pregame act to signal lift off of a basketball-inspired collection.
The collection: Naturally, sporting references came by way of mock warmup gear such as hoodies, trackpants and basketball shorts (looks 2 & 5) and post-game attire — with casual bomber and smart trousers combis (looks 12, 14 & 41) interspersed with the occasional sleek overcoat lopped over windbreakers and jumpers (looks 6, 7 & 43). More noteworthy is Elliott's decision to switch up the brand's lexicon of colours; moving away from his thematically monochrome collections of the past few seasons.
Buro loves: The Nike kicks paired with several ensembles (looks 4, 12, 42 and more). With brands the likes of Comme des Garçons, Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh and Vlone having collaborated with the sportswear giant on co-branded sneakers, it seems like Elliott has scored himself a piece of the pie. Or rather, hype. Check out the first silhouette here. And if this runway is anything to go by, expect an Air Max 95 to be thrown into the mix (look 5).
RAF SIMONS: NEW YORK, NEW YORK
The inspiration: If the recent launch of Calvin Klein by Appointment was not palpable enough of a sign that Raf Simons had arrived in America, then the latest collection from his eponymous label should do the trick. Spelled out in plain sight: 'NY'. Here's to Raf in New York.
The collection: Still all aboard the supersize bandwagon, it was a parade of tongue-in-cheek slouchy knits (looks 3, 10, 16 & 34); dashing overcoats given the street treatment with tape-like belts and knit sleeves (looks 1, 2, 4, 22, 35 & 36); and a cheeky poke at the city's bad taste 'I LOVE NY' tourist merchandise (looks 6 & 12). Of course, even Simons couldn't resist the allure of the working class checked jacket in a tawny brown (look 31). A look popularised by Demna Gvasalia that most recently, had even Dries Van Noten under the spell at Paris Men's Fashion Week.
Up next: Simons's much-anticipated debut for Calvin Klein Collection on the 10 of February — one that has the industry on the edge of their seats. Stay up to date by tuning into the live stream on Buro.
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