NYFW FW20: What we adored from the Coach, Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs fall/winter 2020 runway shows
First impressions: Though Coach fall/winter 2020 show was in an industrial warehouse, with concrete floors and high ceilings, the looks that strode down the runway were anything but cold. Dressed in primary colours, and with socks tucked into smart loafers and sneakers, the models would have looked right at home in a '70s or '80s high school movie.
Favourite looks: This season, Stuart Vevers worked with the estate of the late artist Jean-Michel Basquiat, and the abstract print can be seen emblazoned on sweaters, a trench coat, and on a bag carried by Basquiat's niece, Jessica Kelly, who walked the show. As colour was the star of the day, the lush colour-blocked coats, in a short style as well as a knee-grazing length, was lust-worthy, as was the striped retro fabric (traditionally used as lining for Coach bags) which was transformed into practical separates.
Favourite accessories: Coach has always been known for their accessories, and the bags from this collection don't disappoint. In various geometric shapes, the triangular, round and rectangular arm candies adorned the wrists of both the boys and girls alike, adding to Vever's vision of New York cool.
First impressions: As the lights dimmed, the distinct voice of masked Canadian singer Orville Peck drawled out the ballad, 'Dead of Night', inside the American Stock Exchange. Cosy knits, equestrian detailing and pleated skirts with a metallic sheen strode onto the runway. There wasn't a high heel in sight, as models walked surely (and comfortably) in scrumptious leather boots across the wooden runway.
Favourite looks: Outerwear was definitely the highlight of the show, and it's easy to imagine that the capes, shearling coats or smart jackets will find their place in women's wardrobes across the world. It was a collection that communicated ease, and even when the details could potentially come across as complicated (think: fringe or the knotted sweaters), the result was effortless and chic.
Favourite accessories: No flash in the pan, Kors said he thought of longevity when he was creating the collection. This is evident in the leather bags — in shapes like a bowler or saddle style — that wouldn't look out of place in your mother's treasured vintage collection, or on the shelves of an upscale department store today.
First impressions: Intense, vivid and non-stop motion. It was hard to tell what we needed to concentrate on at the Marc Jacobs fall/winter show, as models stormed the runway and 88 dancers, led by dancer and choreographer Karole Armitage, weaved in and out of the audience in an energetic performance. In the clothes, we caught glimpses of Jackie Kennedy and her younger sister, Swan Lee Radziwill, and Mia Farrow in Rosemary's Baby — icons in real and reel life who informed the times.
Favourite looks: It would be silly to describe the Marc Jacons fall/winter 2020 collection as 'basic'. Yes, the coats, jackets and dresses had a mod appeal, with clean silhouettes and done in solid colours. And yet, the evening dresses that were interspersed with the looks had a couture-like beauty that couldn't be ignored.
Favourite accessories: When it came to the accessories, it was less fuss and more elegance. The shoes, like the simple but stunning black knee-high boot, or pointy-toe pumps, were pared back and considered. The bags too, were kept simple and classic. A hint of playfulness did shine through, in the form of double belts, as well as in a beret shaped like a rosette.