NYFW FW20: All the best moments from Cinq A Sept, Lie Collection and Longchamp

LIE COLLECTION

First Impressions: Pleats, ruffles, layering, oversized shoulders — more is more is more, and we just can't seem to get enough. Designer Chung Chung Lee is easily one of the most hardworking designers we've met, and his eye for detail just keeps getting better. Chung was inspired by the working class Rude Boys of '60s post-industrial London, and this was translated into oversized silhouettes, big shoulders and deconstructed suiting, balanced out with feminine touches like a contrast of softer fabrics.

Favourite looks: The show opened strong — literally — with big shoulders on a double-breasted leather jacket. Easily one of the trademarks of the season, this same shape would be repeated throughout the looks, on a bomber jacket, puffer coat, and sleeveless blazer, as well as the head-turning black and white leather jacket with a trio of zips. Functional? Perhaps not. But we're betting this collection will be a favourite with the street style set next season.

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Favourite accessories: This season, Lie worked with Fixxat on the collection of handbags. The architectural influences come through in the strong lines, and the multi-coloured, multi-faceted army candy that walked the runway. Of note: Six removable zipped pouches slung casually cross-body, as well as the hard case filled to the brim with bags of all shapes, colours and sizes.

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CINQ A SEPT

First Impressions: Over light bites at Delmonico's (the menu featured steak on toast, lobster Newburg and mini baked Alaska cones), we were invited to get up close with Cinq a Sept's fall/winter 2020 collection. Historically, and iconically, the restaurant was one of the first places in New York to admit female diners in without a male companion, and the setting was the perfect backdrop for Jane Siskin's vision of a collection that perfectly encapsulated the term "grunge and glory".

Favourite looks: What does one wear to a power lunch? Why, a suit, of course. But not any old stuffy suit, mind. A full-on denim look, blazers with cut-out slits at the arms to show off a floral blouse underneath, and looks featuring bright taffeta blouses that added a touch of fancy. Interspersed with the darker tones of browns, maroons and neutrals (the palette was inspired by artist David Hockney), were dresses that were sheer, printed and ultra-feminine.

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Favourite accessories: Snakeskin boots have fast become a trend we've been spotting on the runways, and the one from Cinq a Sept have been executed laced up, but with a hint of slouchiness. In colours like brown, pink and baby blue, they were the perfect accessory to lend an edge to floaty dresses and full-on suits.

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LONGCHAMP

First Impressions: This is creative director Sophie Delafontaine's fourth show at New York Fashion Week, and over the seasons, we've seen the vision of the quintessential modern Longchamp woman coming together under her charge. On the 25th floor of Hudson Commons, and with a backdrop that was the gorgeous New York City skyline on a cloudless day, a collection inspired by the '70s — where leading ladies like Catherine Deneuve and Stéphane Audran set the style pace for their generation — walked the runway.

Favourite looks: Longchamp may be known for their accessories, but by no means are this season's clothing playing second fiddle. Minimalism was definitely not the name of the game when Delafontaine was designing the collection, if the printed, layered and shearling collared creations are anything to go by. Printed gauzy dresses with embroidery,  patterned jumpers, leather culottes, and bomber jackets came together to capture the free-spiritedness of a bygone era.

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Favourite accessories: The classic Le Pliage got both downsized and upsized this season, with the micro version making an appearance amidst its oversized sisters in patent green, red croc and gold. The Roseau was given a new update in terms of proportion, and a couple of the bags sported the signature LGP Longchamp logo.

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See all the coverage from New York Fashion Week fall/winter 2020.