Best shows from NYFW FW17 Day 2: Calvin Klein, Jeremy Scott and Jason Wu

Best shows from NYFW FW17 Day 2: Calvin Klein, Jeremy Scott and Jason Wu

New York Fashion Week

Text: Elizabeth Osborn

Calvin Klein redefines American classics, Jason Wu empowers women through colour and silhouette and Jeremy Scott takes us back to the 1960s

The collection: Raf Simons' first show with Calvin Klein had the industry buzzing with anticipation on how would he reinvent an iconic American brand. And raise the bar he did — the collection held a strong unisex aesthetic throughout, varying from pieces in vibrant colours (looks 1, 2, 3, 45, 46 & 47), soft greys (looks 8, 9, 10 & 11) to double leather (looks 52, 53 & 54) and double denim, aka cowboy tuxedos (looks 37, 38, 39 & 40). The brilliant Simons weaved in elements of sensuality innate to the Calvin Klein brand — exposing torsos through sheer tops (looks 12, 15, 16 & 29) and bold cut-out dresses (looks 55, 56 & 58). We especially loved the ingenuity of his trench-coat covered in the plastic, created to be reflective with every movement (looks 7, 22, 23, 24 & 26). 

Worth the investment: The metal-toed cowboy boots and transparent pumps — both timeless statements in their own right.

Try this now: Styling a nude-coloured top under a sharp pant suit (looks 8, 9, 10, 11 & 18) creates the perfect combination of effortless sensuality.  

The collection: Jason Wu offers daring variety with shiny metallics. Last season, we saw him play with blue metallic, which proved to be a fresh change of direction from his more subdued tones of the past. This time around, he ups the exuberance even more with dazzling gold metallic (looks 27 & 28) and shimmery green tones (looks 21 & 22). We adore how Wu also mixes it all up with his use of mustard (looks 2, 3, 13 & 14) and abstract floral prints (looks 9 & 19). Known for his mastery in flattering the female figure, his evening wear collection is always impeccably elegant and quietly inspiring. Expect plunging necklines on floor-length dresses (looks 8, 9, 12 & 18) and pieces that create an eye-catching silhouette (looks 19, 20, 21, 26, 28, 29 & 31).

I Spy: Fishnet tights — these can come with a stigma but paired with a chic dress or long skirt, have immense potential to resuscitate a look (looks 6, 7, 11, 12 & 14).

The collection: Gigi Hadid opened Jeremy Scott's fall/winter 2017 Show, wearing a leopard-print jacket and pants with a Jesus portrait on each leg enhanced by thick bottom eyelashes, resembling the 1960s icon, Twiggy. The opening look is only a slight indicator of what was to come, as Scott has a way of storytelling that turn heads when least expected. This season, neon and psychedelic colours takes a backseat to pieces swathed in earthy tones of tartan and patchwork (looks 5, 16, 19, 26, 33 & 36), multi-coloured stripes (looks 6, 16, 21 & 35) and prints flaunting historic or religious figures (looks 3, 4, 11, 19, 23, 24, 29, 31, 37 & 38). He didn't quite leave his reliable flamboyance behind though, as seen in a baby blue studded jacket and flares (look 25), as well as chandelier-esque headpieces (looks 23 & 39). The last look? A loud red-sequinned tank with the slogan, "As seen on TV".

Lesson learnt: Twiggy was iconic after all, as 1960s makeup took centrestage with this show. We're talking beautiful bottom-heavy lashes and a natural barefaced complexion.

Set design: A runway covered in white shag carpet  — epic!


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All coverage of New York Fashion Week FW17.