Show reviews: Highlights from NYFW fall/winter 2016 — Day 6
New York Fashion Week
CAROLINA HERRERA: THE FUTURE OF FEMINISM
The collection: It was a breathe of fresh air at Carolina Herrera's FW16 show today. While the designer is loved for her classic take on feminism, this season marks a forward change in the House of Herrera. Looking towards the future, the collection boasts the use of modern technology and techniques that enhanced the intricate designs seen on dresses, all while maintaining its delicate form. This is one major evolutionary step for the brand.
A closer look: Turn your attention to the 3D floral embroidery work on looks 17, 18, 23 and 24. Designed to look like raised blooms, decorative textures in the form of laser cut flowers and delicate mini paillettes (look 35) were every bit ethereal as it was experimental.
Buro loves: The dreamy parade of polished cocktail dresses and elegant evening gowns in signature Herrera elegance that was nothing short of red carpet worthy.
TOMMY HILFIGER: AHOY, MATEY
The set: As if it's not enough to just stage a fashion show, Tommy Hilfiger never fails to wow with his sets. This season, Hilfiger built an impressive 1920s-style cruise ship (T.H. Atlantic) structure within the historic Park Avenue Armory that came complete with stacks billowing steam.
The inspiration: Hilfiger constantly looks to the sea for inspiration, but each time he does so, he manages to take away a different interpretation. For FW16, he went back in time on a journey across the Atlantic with a happier ending than the Titanic voyage. There was no shortage of nautical references that we don't even blame you for being reminded of Olive Oyl with look 55 — fully intended by the designer.
The collection: From military wool coats trimmed with gold buttons (looks 3, 5, 9, 19 & 38) and Breton striped leather tops (look 6), to embellished sailor dresses (looks 55 & 58) and high-waisted sailor pants (looks 7 & 21), this was a collection that would set sail extremely well with the young at heart.
3.1 PHILLIP LIM: JAPANESE CRAFT
The collection: Has there ever been a fall/winter collection from Phillip Lim that isn't down right cool? No. Once again, the proof lies in his FW16 runway show where '70s mod references were elevated with leisure elements for the cool downtown girl. Plaid, velvet and metallic in burnt orange, mustard yellow and brown were fused for a winning combination of luxe utilitarian that's easy-to-wear. And while velvet is often associated with royalty, Lim turned its aristocratic nature down a couple of notches by giving it a much-needed street 'tude.
The inspiration: This season, Lim took inspiration from the Japanese dress code. Precise tailoring and kimono styles were reconstructed to give form and function in relaxed silhouettes.
Worth the investment: Tired of your cookie cutter winter outerwear? Take your pick from Lim's cool girl selection that runs the gamut of oversized plaid parkas, patchwork moto jackets and braided double breasted coats. Our must-have? The quilted kimono style puffer jackets (look 1, 3, 6 & 24).
Accessories: FW16 introduces the Hana bag collection. Meet the Hana Flap shoulder chain bag and the Hana belt bag. The word 'hana' means 'favourite' in Japanese.
RAG & GONE: THE RACE IS ON
The inspiration: Clearly drawing from the world of motorcross racing, designer duo David Neville and Marcus Wainwright recontextualised motocross gear for urbanites. Think racing jackets reworked into leather motocycle jackets, trousers slit at the knee for mobility and, racing jerseys branded with their very own motif.
Buro loves: The oversized cable knit sweaters (looks 20, 21, 28 & 30) unbuttoned and worn to expose the shoulder. Tackling the off-the-shoulder trend purposefully, wearers have the option of styling themselves according to temperature changes. This is fashion and practicality at its very best.
I spy: The '90s will forever be synonymous with American designers — and for obvious reasons, of course. To tackle an urban jungle that is the Big Apple, athletic separates fused with classic workwear staples as artfully styled at Rag & Bone's FW16 show is clearly the only acceptable off-duty attire for pounding the streets.
For all coverage of New York Fashion Week fall/winter 2016, click here.