Show reviews: Highlights from NYFW fall/winter 2016 — Day 7
New York Fashion Week
TORY BURCH: AMERICAN OVERACHIEVER
The inspiration: If designer Tory Burch's fall/winter inspiration were to be communicated verbally, it would have made zero sense at all. Sure, the preppy equestrian trope and the Tory Sport atheleisure pieces mixed in do click, but the café scene from Éric Rohmer's L'amour l'après-midi (Love in the Afternoon)? Placed in the hands of anyone other than Burch and her team, the collection would not have conveyed the sporty refinement uplifted by understated elegance it did — and, we have a designer who excels in marrying all her disparate loves in a beautifully cohesive collection to thank for that.
The collection: Attire for hitting the stables, courts, green or sidewalk cafés are all encompassed — take a closer look and see the breathable polos (look 6), casual slacks (look 7), argyle knits (look 4), riding boots and saddle bags (look 8) woven in. Given the multi-tasker the intrepid Burch really is, the collection will speak to her mini-mes: Namely, the ladies who manage to clock in a morning ride at the stables, hit some balls and brunch in the city all before noon. For the rest of us plebians, here's aspirational shopping not by size, but by ambition — time to ride those #LifestyleGoals, hard.
Something you might have missed: The functionality of it all. As Burch explained, "Accessories reflect the mood, from a convertible harness bag to boots with removable spats and our update on our Reva flat." Bravo Tory, bravo.
RODARTE: FILM NOIR TO FASHION
The inspiration and set: Francis Ford Coppola's The Godfather, sparked by design duo Kate and Laura Mulleavy's revisit to the café where the director supposedly penned a part of the film. In true Rodarte fashion, the collection was shown to the usual backdrop of flourescent light tubes infused with nature's elements, albeit discerningly dystopic with a juxtaposition of flowers strewned amongst shattered rubble — a reflection of the turbulence in Coppola's award-winning film indeed.
The collection: The Mulleavy sisters filtered their FW16 colour palette considerably, choosing to contrast their mainstay of wintry whites and inky blacks with mustard, burgundy, and hues from latter's familial spectrum. And living up to the Rodarte smorgasbord of feminine wiles, sultry sheer organza, pure lace, flirty ruffles and gorgeous embellishments was what the collection was spun from.
Buro loves: That the designers served up their interpretation of the SS16 trend of technicolour coats — tiered fur dyed in deeper hues demarcate the Mulleavy incarnation (looks 11, 26 & 27). Wicked.
COACH 1941: TOO COOL FOR SCHOOL
The collection: Continuing the Americana life that Stuart Vevers has built for the American leather house, the designer explores the theme deeper this fall/winter. The Coach magpie champions ice hockey this season with an array of iconic jock cover-ups — cropped or oversized. Varsity jackets were stamped with iron-on patches of Coach's insignias such as the T-Rex, 'C's and 41 (representing 1941, the year the house was founded). Vevers' signature patchwork also continues on from SS16 with updated versions in paisley and plaid for FW16.
Worth the investment: As with all of Coach's arm candy, the cover-ups are just as must-have worthy. From leather varsity jackets (look 6) to teddy bear shearling coats (look 17) and suede jackets (look 14), we know where we will be getting our deep freeze cover-ups come September.
The venue: A hint to the collection's inspiration, guests relived their physical education days in a typical high school gymnasium and basketball court fitted with benchwarmers cushioned with luxurious leather, of course.
OSCAR DE LA RENTA: VOICE OF FEMININITY
The collection: As we know it, there has never been a debate about Oscar de la Renta's capability to elevate the natural beauty of a woman. The late designer left a revered legacy that if chronicled, would be peppered with the instances he's made women feel invincible with his gorgeous creations. For FW16, designer Peter Copping lived up to what's come to be expected from the de la Renta brand, enchanting and accentuating with hourglass outers (looks 3 & 9), peplum cuts (looks 24 & 28) and lace and jacquard thrown in for that extra touch of luxe.
Making headway: With a shade of oxblood instead of the carnation red — Oscar de la Renta's favourite flower — so intricately tied to the label, Copping's delicate handling of helming the storied house is more than admirable. From the red-on-red carnation printed tribute designs last season to fall/winter's colour of power executed a shade deeper (looks 2, 24 & 49), the designer walks in his own light while keeping de la Renta close to heart.
Try this now: Belt your fur gillets (look 10) to cut a shapely figure on top of harnessing extra warmth. Between mother nature's unkind chills and the layers it requires to insulate in winter, you'll thank Copping for this ingenious trick.
For all coverage of New York Fashion Week fall/winter 2016, click here.