Best shows from MMFW FW18: MSGM, DSquared2 and Prada
Milan Men's Fashion Week
Norman Tan reports direct from Milan Men's Fashion Week with daily audio reviews of his favourite collections. Simply click play and listen to him provide his fresh take of all the runway action — from emerging trends, hottest looks, to candid moments that can only be caught by a person attending the shows. Enjoy!
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MSGM: ON THE PULSE
Designer: Massimo Giorgetti
Synopsis: A MSGM show always feels like a pastiche of current, or soon to be current, trends. There were white 'fugly sneakers' à la Demna Gvsalia and Gucci, brown corduroy from last season's Prada, ties from last season's Fendi, Canadian tuxedo from Calvin Klein by Raf Simons, Navajo from yesterday's Diesel Black Gold, and plaid from this season's Versace. Translation: Giorgetti has his finger on the pulse. As a whole, it was a tamer offering from previous seasons — no super crazy clashes of prints or colours — but rather, a refocus on monochromatics. And on that note, I was rather drawn to the casual simplicity of the opening two looks: Sleeveless V-neck top tucked into matching drawstring tracksuit trousers — one in winter white and the other in mocha brown. Chic and cool.
DSQUARED2: WILD WILD WEST
Designer: Dan and Dean Caten
Synopsis: With several men's shows now combined with the women's shows in February — and Milan Men's Fashion Week shrinking by a whole day this season as a result — it was good to see that Dan and Dean Caten combined their women's show with their men's instead. As such, Bella Hadid opened and Kendal Jenner closed (because, when it comes to being fabulous on the runway, men just don't compare to the ladies) and the gents followed suit. A cowboy suit, that is. We're talking black-and-white cowhide patched onto the yoke of plaid shirts, stitched to the hem of ripped jeans, and applied to leather jackets. The Wild Wild West look was completed with fringed leather trousers, exaggerated cowboy hats and, for a DSquared2 spin, pink sequins used for neckerchiefs, arm sleeves (layered under denim shirts) and socks. A collection very much in the DSquared2 wheelhouse.
PRADA: BLACK NYLON FTW
Designer: Miuccia Prada
Synopsis: First thought when receiving the invitation for the show: "What! It's not at the Prada show space?" For as long as we can remember, every Prada show has been held at their office — their address, via Fogazzaro 36, basically rolls off the tongue every fashion week. But for fall/winter 2018, the collection was staged in a warehouse just a stone's throw from Fondazione Prada. While the location changed, everything else remained the same. In short, Mrs Prada rolled out a retrospective of her greatest hits. It started with an entourage of black nylon (Prada's ground zero, if you like) crafted into padded Macs and coats bearing couture-like round shoulders, before giving way to iconic prints (including the banana print from SS2011, tropical print from SS2014, and the recent Christophe Chemin print featuring James Dean kissing Cleopatra from AW2016) spliced, reconstructed, and redacted onto camp collar shirts and bulbous outerwear (all destined to be a hit). Yes, there was a collaboration with four industrial designers — Konstantin Grcic, Herzog & de Meuron, Ronan & Erwan Bouroullec, and Rem Koolhaas were all invited to create an item from Prada's black nylon material — but the real accessories that got everyone talking were the bucket hats (black for the tame, yellow for the brave), those sporty Chelsea boots, and black ties with Prada's inverted triangle logo. That's right, the tie is back.
Listen to all our audio reviews of the best menswear shows from Milan Men's Fashion Week fall/winter 2018.