Moncler unveils Genius, Gucci preaches unity, Moschino goes sci-fi and other shenanigans at Milan Fashion Week
And so it begins
Milan Fashion Week opened with a bang. At the Palazzo delle Scintille, eight foiled tents housed the works of the Moncler Genius clan, with each designer — Simone Rocha, Craig Green, Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli, Palm Angel's Francesco Ragazzi, Fragment's Hiroshi Fujiwara, Noir Kei Ninomiya's Kei Ninomiya, Sandro Mandrino and Karl Templer — revealing their renditions of the puffer jackets in their signature styles, with Rocha choosing the embellished route, Ragazzi indulging his logo obsession and Piccioli channeling his cape crusade. VIPs, editors and celebrities were treated to the same in the dark, club-like atmosphere. Translation: Everyone braved the heat from the human traffic, crowded the entrances, dying for a peep of the Genius inside. Get yours below. A more detailed report will be released at a later date.
Titled Cyborg, the theme of plastic surgery and identity as a social construction were aggrandized by the surgically themed runway. Ski masks, something of Michele's specialty by now, came in knits and laces over a remixed soundtrack of a heart monitor. Several models carried their severed heads as accessories. One had a chameleon in his hand. People tend to forget that Michele is quite a political designer and this time, his inspirations were a lot clearer. Sikh turbans, Muslim hijabs and Roman Catholic capes were all present in the same collection — we like to think Michele was preaching religious freedom and the peaceful unity of all creeds in spectacular fashion, and not aimlessly reappropriating cultures; we'll let you decide. Religion — talk about a social construct. Yet apt, since he views liberty as a space in which "anybody can become who he/she really wants to be" because it "represents the invitation to diverge, not conforming to univocal and other-directed identity models". Calling us cyborgs then isn't slander; the way he sees it, we're part human, part (social) machine, part whatever else we identify with. We can live with that.
Shanghai Tang's new designer Massimiliano Giornetti dials up the drama in his fall/winter 2018 debut. Opulent details abound, from quilted capes and leather-trimmed velvet mandarin collars to black brocade with gold embroidery and kimono fabric belts printed in great blooms. It was the most tactile we've seen Shanghai Tang, perhaps ever. The Asian spirit, smartly married with Giornetti's Italian sensibilities gives Shanghai Tang the facelift it greatly needed.
Guardians of the Galaxy? USS Callister? Cable Girls? Whatever parallels one draw from Jeremy Scott's fall/winter 2018 endeavor at Moschino, one never fails to marvel at his consistency. Endlessly kitschy (and we say this with the most love a fan can muster) and referential towards popular culture, this show is no different from the last — in the sense that it's loud, it's unabashedly retro and it's fun AF. Though, assuming Scott's fashion frenzy is vacuous would be a rookie mistake. He said backstage: "I was thinking about immigration and illegal immigrants, or illegal 'aliens' when I was designing the collection. I wanted to play with the idea of what an alien actually looks like." Special thanks to Australian illustrator Ben Frost for the pop art which realised Scott's vision to reality. Well, augmented reality.
Think '70s folk and masculine elements such as suspenders, blue collar overalls and suit sets applied on wild berry hues. Corduroy, Prince of Wales checks and velvet showed off the tribal motifs knitted with sequins and other sparkles for a touch of girl.
WEEKEND MAX MARA
Weekend Max Mara's Trophy Day collection by Richard Saja, inspired by the ascot life, is what you'll reach out for on a dressy Sunday. And you can this June. The colourful mini embroideries done over mono-hued prints of peasant life further sweetened the organza overlays and Peter Pan collars on the dresses. Very pretty.
All coverage of Milan fashion week fall/winter 2018.