Best shows from MFW SS18 Day 4: Bottega Veneta, Missoni and Salvatore Ferragamo
Milan Fashion Week
BOTTEGA VENETA: IN DA CLUB
The set: Palazzo Archinto is a new show space for Bottega Veneta. Of the former residence built between 1840 and 1847, creative director Tomas Maier said, "It's very playful; it reflects the mood of the collection," noting the signature neoclassical Italian trimmings, 8-foot gilded mirrors, angelic frescos and maiden murals.
The collection: "Let's get it crunk up on, have fun up on up in this dancery. We got ya open, now ya floatin', so you gots to dance for me." Mary J. Blige's lyrics from 'Family Affair', though initially startling, was the perfect soundtrack for a party. On Maier's VIP list: Fringe, glass beads, mirrors and metal eyelets — all painstakingly applied by hand. Further dressing up the column dresses, sleeveless and long-sleeved jumpsuits as well as shirtdresses, were the cashmere suede, iridescent silk, crisp cotton drill, and pique anaconda and lizard leather intarsia fabrics; mostly dyed in olive green and mauve. Lilac and burnt orange were big too. No particular special treatments for men, though the shimmery blouson jackets and sporty cardigans with laminated exotic skin pockets were TDF.
Something you might have missed: Kendall Jenner, Gigi and Bella Hadid, Hailey Baldwin, Kaia Gerber and Emily Ratajkowski made appearances, strutting to an extended playlist that included 50 Cent and Nelly. Yeah it's hot in here.
MISSONI: BEACH BETTER HAVE MY MONEY
The set: This editor was so fashionably late, she shared the runway with the first model for a few seconds before being pulled by security to join the standing crowd. But no matter — the view of the rainbow tents shading the crowd and swirly sorbet runway is better there anyway.
The collection: Excuse our unbridled honesty, but this is what we imagine the rich wives of Italy and their hippie offspring would wear to the beach. Oh we're sorry, the beach club. And that's a compliment. The quintessential floppy hat (fashion's best sunscreen) gets a facelift at Missoni — knitted and styled pushed back like sun-kissed wavy hair. While we're on the topic of accessories, long scarf necklaces are still in (and still unisex), while shimmery socks continue to be worn with sandals — Angela Missoni's are suede in burnt orange and glossy leather in chili read. There's sex in there too. Tassels are attached to various outfits for a flirty feel, whilst mix-print fabric floral brooches tease the décolletage. The clothes that caught our eyes: Pleated maxi skirts, plunging neck maxis, holographic jackets, off-shoulder capes and cape cardigans — all sheer, all colourful, all the makings of great beach cover-ups. The Andy Warhol-esque abstract faces on the cardigans for women and blousons for men are more editorial than they are commercial; though the madras pajama bottoms and shoes, as well as the classic Missoni chevron robes, will surely sell.
Buro loves: Hailey Baldwin's outfit. The '80s style jewel cardigan with stripe piping is our idea of a decade well relived.
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO: OH, WHAT A NIGHT
The set: A giant — and we don't use this word lightly — statue of a middle finger (a permanent fixture at Piazza Affari) served as the centerpiece to a maze of a runway made of glass. "Do not step on the glass," warned the security. But there was no way to get to our seats without, so we landed our boots on the stainless glass, very gently, hoping the middle finger was never meant for us.
The collection: Despite the obscene gesture sticking out like a sore thumb, designer Fulvio Rigoni was feeling rather romantic about spring/summer 2018. Predominantly a collection of dresses, his pieces were light, slinky, and always flowing. Aside from the opening nude suiting and subsequent snakeskin two-piece punctured with holes, cerulean blouse tucked in mustard pants, and a dress slashed across the hip held together by a silk sash; the rest of the offerings were clearly set for nighttime wonders. Among our favourites were a red bias cut slip plunging at the back, a drape neck dress with faintly printed flowers, and a midnight sequin-heavy number held up by dangerously fine spaghetti straps. The laser cut work on the teal and white frocks was impressive. The stacked bags (same shape, different sizes) and the knit bikini sets were cute attempts at casual; albeit a little off-center for a collection destined for black tie.
The closing: Models congregated at the steps of the piazza, while a magical light show unfolded, eventually spelling out the slogan "Amo Ferragamo" before models rushed into the building for the after-party.
Catch up on all coverage from Milan Fashion Week spring/summer 2018.
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