Milan Fashion Week: Tod’s combines its women and men’s shows for the first time in spring/summer 2019
Summer of love
Doesn't want you
It haunts you
A long way
From this frozen place
U2’s ‘Summer of Love’ sets the tone for Tod’s spring/summer 2019 show, meaning to say it warms our soul insofar as setting our hearts on fire. It also lets us dream, grants us permission to be recklessly young and be as joyous as a singing lark. Perhaps that’s what vacation can do for a person. Or at least, the idea of an Italian getaway did for us, within the hall of Via Palestro, 14 in the middle of Milan.
It was the first time Tod’s combined the men’s and women’s show. Instead of throwing a showy parade in the name of a new era, Andrea Incontri, the creative director of Tod’s menswear, with the assistance of the wome's design team, flexed his muscles quietly. Excuse us, his clothes did.
Take the Xtra Light Trench, a construction feat which moulds itself to the wearer — an exception worthy of a mention in the world of leather, very chic in burnt orange and when belted with a double T loop. Yes, the weather may be warming up but the skins aren’t going anywhere. Even the necklines aren’t spared. Bandana style leather necklaces graced the women’s collarbones — pity Incontri left the men’s bare for the accessory would relax the precise tailoring.
The three button suit begs for a return here, in buttery nude suede, pinched with youth when layered with a plain white tee. Classic Tod’s. Surprises came by way of a trucker jacket with contrast piping, a design feature shared by the accompanying denim. Denim. At Tod’s. We almost took a second look. The trend bled over to the donna; hers is lighter, zips in the front and the pockets are leather-piped. We didn’t see the heart motifs on the royal blue trousers coming either. There’s a story there we must unfold.
Speaking of colours, the peachy final looks are not to be ignored. Not on the shirt dress, sleeves cuffed. Womanly yet girlish, it embodied the spirit of the Tod’s lady. It goes without saying, so did the bags and shoes. The trimmings of the Gommino are embroidered and the front finished with giant tassels. Also, keep eyes peeled for a four-hearted crest unique to driving shoe the season. Dressed in gold lamé stacked in suede, this one you’ll want to stroke to sleep. No speak of the Tod’s show is complete without an honorary mention of the bag du jour. For spring/summer 2019, the nappa D-Bag boasts new luxury detailing, such as snakeskin handles, while the bucket bag comes in a DoubleT version, complete with feathery key fob.
Leather, of course.