Milan Fashion Week SS20: 5 best moments from Versace, Salvatore Ferragamo, MSGM, Giorgio Armani
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO: DON’T FUSS WITH IT
Favourite looks: Paul Andrew’s co-ed show for Salvatore Ferragamo saw many a gender-crossover trend, which we wish were niftily interchanged between the male and female models. For instance, the paper-thin leather dungarees Andrew layered atop oversized striped shirts would have looked divine on one of his boys. Same goes for the breezy jackets featuring exaggerated lapels. Still, there are many wins. Like the thigh-grazing bubble hems, fashionably commercial, swishing below crisp shirts and parkas, all in pastel. Very unlike the strictly ‘80s OTT bubble skirts we saw last season. Those skirting blazer dresses at the end are particularly lovely too.
Favourite detail: Our compliments to the stylist of the show, who put ribbed socks with the house’s signature Vara flats, reinterpreted as the Viva under Andrew. For the first time in a long time, we see the icon in a different light — young and almost punk. Footwear is truly his forte.
Favourite accessories: Salvatore Ferragamo’s cap and sandals are business in the front and party at the back. The former simultaneously shields the face while it leaves a trail of knotted foulard behind; the latter, a block heel with dainty straps is a fine lesson in the art of balance.
MSGM: TO THE NEXT DECADE
Favourite looks: Perhaps a sign of label maturity, Giorgetti’s signature kitsch at MSGM is more controlled than ever. That’s not to say he is eschwing the roots from which his 10-year-old label grew. No way. Massive bows adorn ruched suiting, tweed sets, and plunge-neck minis early on in the lineup — some of the best in the spring/summer 2020 collection. Then there is the crochet mania, seen on sweaters, often times just cape collars. Those woven into neon colourblock frocks married with organza stood out the most. Heck, Fashion and Beauty Editor Jolene Khor could very well see herself in them.
Favourite detail: The designer give his drop-shoulder blouses the trompe-l’œil effect with prints of with Todd Bienvenu’s youthful paintings.
Favourite accessories: Stomp us with all the raffia slides and chunky heels in the world, particularly MSGM’s in black and pink. Better yet, throw in the pumps too. There’s a garden wedding we’d like to wear those to.
GIORGIO ARMANI: GRAND SCHEME OF THINGS
Favourite looks: Giorgio Armani is best known for his grey suits, but those days might be numbered. Not because Armani his losing his touch in this arena — hardly! If anything, his flair for drama (which is quite at war with the strict discipline of suiting) is expanding. Check out that hyper single-shoulder ruffle, resembling of wave corals the imaginary mermaids in our heads swim amongst; and the silk-satin poncho, its netting bejewelled and let loose to fringe at the end. Not forgetting the deftly embroidered jumpsuit and pastel puff closing numbers either.
Favourite detail: There is a certain brand of lightness in Giorgio Armani’s work that wasn’t there before. His clothes move more, breathe more, and illuminate from the fibres on the runway.
Favourite accessory: The oversized acetate belt that never scream for attention yet demand to be addressed.