Milan Fashion Week SS16: Jil Sander

Milan Fashion Week SS16: Jil Sander

Shine on

Text: Andrea Sim

Change is in the air at Jil Sander as a white-washed and biscotti palette led the spring/summer collection that dialed back the designer's signature androgynous aesthetic

The set design: Industrial. There were no antics or distractions. The set was bare save for the metal scaffolding that propped up halogen lamps focused on a runway tiled with linoleum. 

The looks: Colour wise, Rodolfo Paglialunga expanded his repertoire for spring. Fresh white and biscotti culminated in primary red and yellow (looks 14 and 17), before transitioning to his usual greys, blues and blacks. Silhouettes were reworked — many ensembles given shape with a belted waist or leaner cut — marking a departure from his essays on androgyny from last fall and spring. 

I spy: The designer's unwavering love for minimalistic patent leather coats (look 14). The pared-back outerwear fit for Patrick Bateman was also his focus for menswear SS16.

Buro loves: The shine. For example, the floaty, satin pieces (look 12), the leather-like get-ups (look 26), and the peach and mauve dress (look 21).

Favourite accessory: We have never taken to the concept of a tall hat. Sorry, Pharrell. But, paired with the soft, feminine forms at Jil Sander, the designer makes a case for the exaggerated cloche hats that's now on our wish list for spring. 

Something you might have missed: Cut out shoulders on a jacket (look 32) — the first of its kind despite the bevy of designers at New York Fashion Week that were enamoured with exposed shoulders. 

To view the full collection, click on the gallery below.

For all our Milan Fashion Week SS16 coverage, click here