Milan Fashion Week: Salvatore Ferragamo, Missoni, Marni, Giorgio Armani and Dolce & Gabbana close the spring/summer 2019 season with a bang
TWO MOST SURPRISING MOMENTS
- Last season, guests sat on barrels of paper and other recyclable trash at the Marni show. In spring/summer 2019, designer Francesco Risso invites us to bed — literally — first thing in the morning. Singles, doubles and queen sizes covered with colourful linens and accented by varying bed post designs formed a cosy maze at Via Umbria, 42.
- Notable faces graced Dolce & Gabbana's runway as it celebrated its brand DNA, including Monica Bellucci, Carla Bruni, Helena Christensen, Isabelle Rossellini and Maye Musk (Elon Musk's mother). But the real gossip is that Stefano Gabbana allegedly called for the cancellation of all blogger and influencer tickets to the spring/summer 2019 show, due to his falling out with Chiara Ferragni sparked by the designer's insensitive comment about Ferragni's Dior wedding gown on Harper's Bazaar UK's Instagram post. "Cheap," he called it. Drama, drama, drama.
FOUR TRENDIEST ACCESSORIES
- Where Paul Andrew is concerned, squint downwards — all the way down. Salvatore Ferragamo's spring/summer 2019 highlight is the Japanese-y flatform slippers with leather and cork heels. Naturally, a nod to the iconic Salvatore Ferragamo cork Rainbow wedges from way back when.
- For Missoni's 65th anniversary, 65 seaside looks found a grand stage at Viale Eginardo. Swimming among the seaweed scarves and fisherman's dresses were the mother-of-pearl asymmetrical earrings, glimmering light with every microbic movement. Super pretty.
- In tandem with the elaborate set, Marni's spring/summer 2019 collection is steep in boudoir references, including but not limited to at-home slippers. We're in favour of the layered suede skins, dimensionally rich with the fusion of colourways. Make sure you get pedicure and add anklet or two so it doesn't actually look like you just rolled out of bed.
- Top handle bags are undeniably the it shape of the season. In the chaos of it all emerges Giorgio Armani's pared back exotic leather iteration in the tote silhouette. Trends come and go, but this one is likely to transcend time thanks to its simple translation.
SEVEN FAVOURITE LOOKS
- Salvatore Ferragamo look #10: Ferragamo's now signature tone-on-tone gets a summer update with a sporty crop top, handkerchief skirt, and cork-leather barefoot flatforms all in choc hues. Also, it's not every day we get to say cotton tights make for good styling tricks, but Paul Andrew has us convinced. Strip the satin blazer to relax.
- Salvatore Ferragamo look #23: Beige overalls sound lackluster on paper but Guillaume Meilland blows the farm boy essential city vibes. In his styling, the buckles are undone, leaving the front flap go to allow the lush cashmere, slightly see-through, flaunt some skin. Footwear — perforated brogues — is also expressed with transparency.
- Missoni look #58: There were lots of wins from Missoni, from the baby blue denim jacket rounded in with a mesh scarf around the shoulders and the poncho net maxis, to the tasselled tunics in vertical seaside stripes, but we were taken with this sophisticated take on Missoni's signature cardigan. It's no easy feat erasing the dowdy out of a cardigan, but the Italian house managed just fine with a bandana and shearling flats.
- Marni look #1: We knew from the moment this mixed material number came on that it's going to be another amazing collection at Marni. Gathered on both sides of the leather armoury, this dress, undone at the hems in typical Risso fashion, brings curves back into the spotlight. The welcomed casting of fuller figured models further pushes the agenda. 10/10.
- Marni look #10: The female body was further celebrated in the Renaissance and pop culture prints of nakedness. Also, everyone was probably thinking the same thing here — that we all needed to buy a triangle bra, preferably in old school satin (seen in other looks), then wait for the weather to be just right so we can wear a coat with it without feeling or looking ridiculous. But then again, that's impossible with Marni.
- Giorgio Armani look #64: By now, it felt like designers had the gift of telepathy; Armani too was feeling under the sea in spring/summer 2019. Ocean conversation, a big talking point on social media in the last 12 months, has a strong hold on its audience. A good thing too, otherwise we wouldn't have the mermaid metamorphosis of the classic Armani suit. Next level stuff.
- Dolce & Gabbana look #3: Celebrating the brand DNA, excess was in no shortage at the Dolce & Gabbana 153-look show at the Metropol. Which was why the relatively tame brocade suiting in silver and gold, worn by Carla Bruni no less, felt like a breath of fresh air.
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