Milan Fashion Week fall/winter 2020: First impressions, and the best moments of the Salvatore Ferragamo, MSGM, Bottega Veneta runways
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO: MORE THAN A WOMAN
First impression: "The notion of fitting into a set ‘type' feels increasingly obsolete today, both for women and men," Creative Director Paul Andrew said. "The identities we choose to wear today are not fixed through a single filter — they are a shifting kaleidoscope." And so it is dynamic women Andrew looked to this season. His inspiration: the very relevant Nancy Pelosi, along with personal heroes such as Virginia Woolf, Nina Simone, and, of course, Fulvia Ferragamo. Apparently, the latter collected botanical images in a book Andrew found and used across fall/winter 2020.
Favourite looks: Paul Andrew's MO at Salvatore Ferragamo is well-established at this point. The man likes suiting. He likes leather. He doesn't venture far from the classics. Usually, this means a coherent lineup of crisp shirts, reliable skirts, and modest dresses that will stand strong against the unpredictable tides of trends. Maybe there's a semi-provocative cut-out on the back (spring/summer 2020) or a major throwback on an archival print (fall/winter 2019). Refreshing his bag of tricks for the new season (with notable upgrades), what we have is a perfect snapshot of who Andrew is as a ready-to-wear designer, and what Ferragamo is as a label — at least for now.
Favourite accessories: The master of shoes brought his A-game to the runway. See: the cage sandals in taupe, forest, and gold (reworked from the archives) and the Viva thigh-high boots in nappa leather. Viva was also transformed into hair clips. Molto bello!
MSGM: CODE ORANGE
First impression: Of all the mainstream runway presentations so far, MSGM's was, hands down, the most joyful. We get it — it's hella bleak outside. Designers are responding, via their creations, to the rising paranoia in Europe (already full-blown in Singapore) no thanks to the virus, the uncertainty that is Brexit, and the ongoing chaos in Hong Kong, along with whatever bad, terrible awful bleeding unstoppably from the daily paper. Guards are up, so fashion has been conservative. Designer Massimo Giorgetti has other plans. Come what may, he almost seemed to say, what with his gilded pairings, butterfly needlework, and stacks of prints in shouty hues. It's chaos. Optimistic chaos.
Favourite looks: Polka dots in baby pink and teal, as well as glittering ruffles in silver, gold, and rose golds lend energy to the "house of horror" prints found on modestly cut, flowy dresses and relaxed silk shirts. We're particularly fond of how they come together, particularly in looks 7 and 9's peppered use of the noise; looks 14, 16, and 21's audacity to attempt the opposite. Relax guys, the chaos and mania are contained... for the most part.
Favourite accessories: We'd benefit from a cheering-up from the chain link purses, the faux fur throws, and the dotted scarves.
BOTTEGA VENETA: MATRIX RELOADED
First impression: The most anticipated show of the season was met with applause by those who were privileged enough to attend the show and those who weren't, which included influencers — Creative Director Daniel Lee's orders, in place since his reign. Enthusiasm came from our shared love of the house's clean palette, imbued with fluffy (yes, fluffy) fringe skirting, liquid metal dresses, and neon knits, collars popping out of stoic three-button outerwear. The collection's a bit relaxed sci-fi, like a sequel to an encrypted program you don't fully understand yet. There's still a mystery to what would be familiar Bottega shapes and textures by now, and we're hopeful they'll take us to a higher plane. We're halfway there.
Favourite looks: You either love it or you hate it. We are referring to that unmistakable lime green colour of course, which had moderate participation throughout the collection, just shy of 60 looks. (For the record, we love it.) It took its first major turn drenched in jewels, complete with money bag sleeves secured with drawstrings. The dress was a lot to take in. Not to be missed either were the upbeat shirts, collars grazing the lapels of their jackets. We were just wondering which "unforgivable" trend from the ‘90s the fashion world will attempt next. We have our answer. More palatable favourites include furiously fringed maxi skirts styled with knit tunics, and a red-hot number shining like liquid metal. Gorgeous.
Favourite accessories: In what little time Daniel Lee has had, he's returned Bottega Veneta to the forefront of accessory domination. The Padded Casette bag is already a big hit. Vying to join its cousin on the top spot, is the XXL intarsia totes models carried on their backs.
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