Milan Fashion Week fall/winter 2019: Gucci, Max Mara, Emporio Armani and Moncler 0 Richard Quinn bring out the good stuff
TWO MOST SURPRISING MOMENTS
1. The Gucci fall/winter 2019 show invite was a papier-mâché mask of Hermaphroditus, the Greek god with male and female physical attributes — a clever nod to Alessandro Michele's celebrated androgyny in Gucci. Oh and it was mailed to show attendees in a crate, just FYI.
2. At 9.30am, fashion's finest found themselves at the foyer of Università Bocconi (a new runway location) where Max Mara was set to show its latest cuts of wool and leather. "A world class institution whose graduates are movers and shakers — nearly half are women and the number is rising," read the brand's memo. Inspiring the world's future leaders through dress? We'll bite.
FOUR TRENDIEST ACCESSORIES
1. We're not going to pretend to know how the Jason Voorhees masks (that's the villain from Friday the 13th in case you're not into horror classics) were derived for Gucci, although Michele's stream-of-consciousness show notes discussed at length the transformative power of masks and how they're used to reveal and conceal oneself.
2. Please, please, Gucci please make commercial pieces of the gold ear moulds. How else are we going to preach 'talk less, listen more' at work without being confined to irony?
3. When was the last time Max Mara did a print that wasn't logo, animal, or femme fatale? Our point exactly. In its sea of beige, a rosy turn of events by way of heart-adorned slim, knee high boots. They root wooly cardigans — in giraffe and zebra prints, naturally.
4. Giorgio Armani won't be remembered for being the most forward-thinking of designers, which only means that no one reinvents the past quite like he does. Case in point: the coin purse crossbody bags he put out at Emporio Armani's fall/winter 2019 showing.
SEVEN FAVOURITE LOOKS
1. Gucci look #63: some may argue that Gucci's fall/winter 2019 collection is a remix of past collections. While that may be true to the untrained eye, observants will deduce a more reserved fantasy of Michele's consistent parade of the shocking which echoes his debut back in 2015. Look #63's red-fuchsia collision, carried simply (yet beautifully) by a dress with screaming collar and leg of mutton sleeves, then accented with satin boots, is proof.
2. Gucci look #71: served alongside a medieval chorus (don't bother Shazam-ing, it's Gabriel's Message by Edgar Pettman from the 13th or 14th century), a certain menace, a distress, an agony of the body cane to mind. What else could explain the spiked collar, gothic lace and gloves for the romantics?
3. Blooming florals, feather headgear, optimistic hues... all for fall/winter 2019. Richard Quinn gave fashion stereotypes the finger at Moncler; we're likely to follow suit, with a smile on our faces.
4. Max Mara look #2: tone-on-tone is not the news here but Max Mara's command on the evergreen trend on look #2 is. Done in a melange of turquoise, azure and canary, the master of coats layered its pièce de résistance splendidly with an oversized cardigan, both tailored to perfection.
5. Max Mara look #36: no, that's not a vest on Bella Hadid. Not really. Max Mara look #36 presents an optical illusion of sorts. Where the outerwear is stripped later on in the show, it is revealed that the vest, bare in the back with the exception of a harness, is less a garment and more an accessory. Finally, something for us in the tropics.
6. Emporio Armani look #1: a mini cocktail number at Emporio Armani aka look #1, otherwise adequately pretty and easy on the eyes, hints millennial cool when cloaked in white and tussled with sporty red shades.
7. Emporio Armani look #41: If looks could kill, Emporio Armani #41 checked us into the slaughterhouse. Metallic cropped jacket, check. Vinyl skirt, check. Smokey eyes and death stare, check.