Milan Fashion Week fall/winter 2019: Bottega Veneta, Sportmax and Etro
TWO MOST SURPRISING MOMENTS
1. Sportmax’s fall/winter 2019 runway was a bed of raised pink sand. By its side, two arena style seating areas padded with grey felt. Femininity and masculinity, noted.
2.Tatjana Patitz and Farida Khelfa of fashion and film fame from decades past walked the Etro show, flanked by other newer names such as Cara Taylor and Adut Akech. Between the two generations of diverse casting, the likes of Tasha Tilberg and Alek Wek also found their place.
FOUR TRENDIEST ACCESSORIES
1. Daniel Lee’s first collection at Bottega Veneta was inevitably going to draw comparisons to Phoebe Philo’s heritage; after all, he was its director of ready-to-wear during her reign. Lee’s use of metallic brooches to draw emphasis on design details — dipped necklines in look #10 and #15, leather draping in look #18 — is reminiscent of their understated cool-girl elegance they perfected once upon an old Celine.
2. Where there is room for the old, the new is boundless and bountiful. We’re referring to the compact geometric clutches Lee sent out, first in look #4 then again in look #34, albeit that’s the only similarities they share. There is also bound to be much talk surrounding Bottega Veneta’s signature intrecciato (that’s braid in Italian), now blown up to mimic quilting. How clever.
3. Sock sneakers, triangular shades and equestrian belt bags have been on rotation for several seasons. A leather cuff bracelet encrusted with a zipper of contrasting proportions? That’s new, and strangely under-featured in an otherwise excellently paced Sportmax collection.
4. Not going to lie, the velvet tote at Etro isn’t It bag material by any means, but wouldn’t it be nice to see a street style star or celebrity make a beautiful underdog a star? Just a thought. The chunky ear cuffs however, will fly off the shelves.
SEVEN FAVOURITE LOOKS
1. “A shirt is a shirt” is the sort of thing an individual uncultured in fashion would say. Daniel Lee’s buttonless translation of the garment in Bottega Veneta’s look #11 in the fall/winter 2019 runway is testament to the opposite. When done right, a shirt could be a leathery satin, embossed where pleats typically take centre stage, then completed with a ever-so-slightly oversized cuff extending beyond the knuckles. Tucked into an aquamarine quilt skirt? TDF.
2. There were several instances where Lee appeared to be running in the Bottega Veneta studio with scissors. Quite literally, if look #16 is to be taken seriously. The dark navy sweater had its original turtleneck dislodged, and the knit around the hips removed, creating a championing hourglass look for men. House icon intrecciato was applied to the trousers, which varied weave widths offer an intriguing Tetris-ish finish.
3. Prada is bringing sexy back, and so is Bottega Veneta. Maybe. Look #42’s confident bare-chestedness relayed that of look #8 (a sweater), look #14 (a coat worn with a twisted bra top) and look #36 (a blazer with a hole literally cut right out of it). For those who thought Tomas Maier’s femininity is out the window, there’s hope yet.
4. Boys don’t get to have all the fun, not when the Sportmax girl is going to sneak into his closet and cut up his blazer and use the bottom half as a skirt. Gender anarchy, but make it fashion. Look #17 gives us a hint of traditional menswear with lots to love; the layers of sleeveless blazers (look #4) and two-tone reconstructed suit (look #18) are in tandem.
5. There is romance in utility — just see look #40 at Sportmax, which soft blouson would be a bore sans tan wraparound, trailing belt and all. Our real interest is in the trousers, roomy at the hips then drastically tapered at the hem, snap buttons holding the slit in place. We first spotted them this season at Gucci; this second sighting makes it a trend to watch.
6. It’s shorts! It’s a skirt! It’s a tent! It’s… a hybrid of all three in Etro’s look #15. A breeze to style, Veronica Etro tucked in a brand-led armour sweater, but really, what wouldn’t pair well here?
7. We’re not one to Diet Prada anyone (yeah, it’s a verb now), but we think Etro’s look #24 from fall/winter 2019 and Louis Vuitton’s Renaissance jackets from spring/summer 2018 womenswear are vibing. Make no mistake, we’re all for it. Only Etro’s skirt version is less likely to challenge you to a duel and more likely to write you a sonnet.
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