Best shows from MFW FW17 Day 2: Max Mara, Fendi, Prada and Moschino
It's only day two of Milan women's fashion week and, compared to the menswear shows, it's a riotous circus. Streets are filled with gorgeous glamorous women, roads are blocked by hoards of street style photographers, and the front row is populated by A-listers. To stay up-to-date with all the action, tune in to our daily audio reviews from editor-in-chief Norman Tan as he reports live from the runways.
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MAX MARA: MATCHING MONOCHROME
Designer: Ian Griffiths
Synopsis: Gone were last season's tropical prints, and in its place, a chic lesson in the matchless simplicity of monochrome dressing. The show opened with blazing full red looks before bleeding into mocha browns and slate greys — followed by an excursion into metallic gold pant suits — before finishing with burgundy velvets and an off-the-shoulder black coat worn by Gigi Hadid. But monochrome doesn't mean boring. Griffiths kept it fresh by playing with different textures including cable knits, sheer cashmere, and shearling. When it came to accessories, I loved the mittens matched with coats, crocodile tote bags trimmed with shearling, and those retro cat-eye shades in optical white.
FENDI: YOU GIVE ME FEVER
Designer: Karl Lagerfeld
Synopsis: 'It's the morning after the night before,' explained the show notes, but don't expect disheveled models hiding under hoodies or shading their tired eyes behind sunnies. Instead, played out on a wooden runway set with 'double F' logos, girls came out fresh and blazing in carmine red thigh-high stiletto boots. Absolute fire. Coats were routinely cuffed with strips of fur on the sleeves; Prince of Wales checks and herringbone wools were applied to louche trousers cinched at the ankles; and geometric prints and patterns (inspired by Viennese woodblock printing and 18th century Italian papiers dominotés) found its way onto garments as cut-outs on loose V-neck knitwear and, dramatically, as marquetry fur on gorgeous coats. I. Die. Bananas.
PRADA: BURNING MAN MEETS REBEL REVOLUTIONIST
Designer: Miuccia Prada
Synopsis: In some ways, the show was expected: Like the recent menswear fall/winter 2017 show held in the same location just a month prior, the collection was rooted in the '70s age of innocence, and we saw the return of corduroy suits, seashell necklaces worn with knit pullovers, and scarves tied at the back of the neck. But in many ways, it was also unexpected: There were feathers dangling off shift dresses; knitted bralets for that Burning Man aesthetic; large bands of marabou feathers trimming the hemlines of coats and dresses; and, a crowd favourite, statement marabou feather head pieces that fully encircled the face. Favourite look? That petrol blue-green cowboy leather jacket with yellow fringe beading. And, as always, there was an undercurrent of nihilism and rebellion. When all the looks were viewed in unison during the final walk through, it was clear that Miuccia had created an anti-fashion wardrobe for the budding revolutionist.
MOSCHINO: EVERYDAY COUTURE (AKA THE FASHION FALL-OUT)
Designer: Jeremy Scott
Synopsis: The white slogan T-shirt worn by Jeremy Scott at the end of his show really encapsulated the spirit of his collection — it read: 'Couture is an attitude, it is not a price point.' Which was telling, because Scott had just sent out models wearing everyday items as fashion — transformed from the mundane to the marvelous with a pinch of Moschino panache. Think: A dress crafted from opaque bubble-wrap; ensembles assembled from cardboard packaging with 'Fragile' stickers and 'This Way Up' stamps as the functional equivalent to florals; a gown fully crafted from black leather gloves; dry-cleaning plastic sheaths reimagined as a shift dress complete with a wire hanger for a headpiece; and Gigi Hadid closing the show wearing a rug. Fashion for fun, fashion fuelled by desire, and ultimately, fashion as a fall-out.
TUNE IN TOMORROW:
Check back tomorrow as Norman Tan continues his on-the-go live reporting from Milan fashion week for the women's fall/winter 2017 season.
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