Best shows from MFW FW17 Day 3: Diesel Black Gold, Emporio Armani, Sportmax, Etro, TOD’s and Versace
A massive day three at Milan fashion week with six shows, countless presentations, and multiple re-see appointments. Get the low-down on what happened by listening in to Norman Tan's audio review of his favourite moments, including the Matrix-style set up at Diesel Black Gold; why he loved the leather biker jackets at TOD's; and how Donatella Versace is using the trend of logo mania to empower women. Tune in, scroll through the runway images below, and share this story.
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DIESEL BLACK GOLD: WELCOME TO THE MATRIX
Designer: Andreas Melbostad
Synopsis: Held in an industrial warehouse — an expanse of concrete peppered with spotlights and backdropped by a metal lattice — the setting was more like a matrix film set rather than a runway. And when the models stepped out to a beat-heavy electro soundtrack, clad in full-length leather jackets and belted coats and dresses, I was half-expecting an appearance by Neo. Favourite look was that ivory turtleneck knit paired with a matching trouser worn under a black top coat.
EMPORIO ARMANI: METROPOLITAN CONTRASTS
Designer: Giorgio Armani
Synopsis: The show notes said that it was a 'collection marked by a restless, metropolitan spirit, constructed from opposites'. This contrast was clear from the outset with an opening look of a polkadot pant suit in black-and-white juxtaposed with quirky clear PVC skirts and jackets printed with square motifs. As the show transitioned form day to night, coloured spotlights danced on the runway and it was time for a disco with multi-coloured sequin tops and hot pink slathered on fur gilets. There was an undeniable 90s influence, evident not only in the colour-blocked hand motif print on an abbreviated jacket, but also the catchy soundtrack — One by Mary J. Blige and U2, as well as Don't Go Breaking My Heart by Elton John and Kiki Dee.
SPORTMAX: RUN BABY RUN
Designer: Sportmax design team
Synopsis: Minimalist, athletic, and fashion-forward. In short, a recipe for contemporary and covetable pieces. Let's talk favourite looks: That quilted white sweater with matching scarf emblazoned with the word 'RUN'; that gorgeous high-shine patent leather parka with a drawstring waist; all the black-and-white dresses (love the simplicity of dual tones); a wide-lapel cream coat cinched at the waist with a white bum bag; and, of course, those closing dresses and jumpsuits nipped at the waist with a silver carabiner clip to accentuate an hour-glass silhouette.
ETRO: A NOD TO NEPAL
Designer: Veronica Etro
Synopsis: Like her brother Kean Etro who recently showed his menswear collection last month, Veronica Etro sought inspiration from the mountains for her fall/winter 2017 collection. However, whilst Kean was more esoteric, referencing the spiritual nirvana that men experience when seeking higher ground, Veronica stamped her inspiration point more specifically; referencing Nepal with the country's iconic prayer flags strewn across the runway. The collection? As colourful and rich as it was luxurious, with models parading tribal jacquards and native Nepalese prints (mixed with the house paisley) on flowing silk gowns, shearling coats, and collarless jackets finished with circular mirror discs. Sherpa backpacks and crossbody bags were also given the Etro treatment with the straps embroidered with designs inspired by the fine needlework and tapestry of Kathmandu.
TOD'S: FOR THE LOVE OF LEATHER
Designer: TOD'S design team
Synopsis: Guests were greeted at the entrance with a performance and installation by Thomas de Falco entitled 'Wrapping'. Models were bound in strips of leather — featuring the perennially youthful Naomi Campbell — in an artful fusion of tradition and avant-garde, which was TOD's way of paying tribute to craftsmanship. When it came to the actual ready-to-wear garments on the runway, I have to say that it was one of my favourite collections in Milan to date. Being a luxury leather house, the leather pieces naturally shone through. Case in point: A latte leather blouse with patch-pockets tucked into a matching A-line skirt; leather trench coats corseted at the waist; and this to-die-for black, brown and white motorcycle jacket that came with an oversized zip hood. Bomb.com
VERSACE: LOVE, EQUALITY AND POWER
Designer: Donatella Versace
Synopsis: Versace has always been about the empowerment of women, and this fall/winter 2017 collection was no exception. Starting with hooded sweats layered under shearling parkas and ending with her signature offering of sexy and slinky party frocks, all the models wore dark eye makeup and had strips of their hair coloured in either neon yellow, hazmat orange or fire engine red. (We've already seen red at No. 21, Fendi, Emporio Armani and TOD's, so it's definitely a key colour for the season.) Yellow, orange and red are associated with warnings, attention-grabbing signage, and ultimately, protests. In short, Donatella was telling girls that punk, just like their rights, is not dead — sending out beanies and tops bearing bold logos such as 'LOVE', 'EQUALITY' and 'POWER'.
TUNE IN TOMORROW:
Check back tomorrow as Norman Tan continues his on-the-go live reporting from Milan fashion week for the women's fall/winter 2017 season.
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