Show reviews: Highlights from MFW fall/winter 2016 — Day 6
Milan Fashion Week
DSQUARED2: MILITARY MEETS MONARCHY
The inspiration: Brothers Dan and Dean Caten turned up for fall/winter 2016 with aces in their hands, proposing a delectable marriage of 19th century Victoriana, military detailing and, from their spring/summer collection, Japanese influences.
The collection: The Dsquared2 monarchy stepped out onto the runway in skinny camo cargos and military capes with tattoo-printed bodies layered underneath, all tied together with luxe Victorian elements such as high ruffled collars and overlayed lace. Tiered shoulder-duster tassel earrings — also seen attached to the waist and draped around the neck in imperial yellow (looks 7 & 11) — ramped up the regal factor.
Buro loves: The outerwear. Dsquared2 is best known for its individuality, so who better to look to than the Caten twins for some statement winter wear? Take your pick from the selection of sharp military garb (looks 22 & 23), chic fur coats turned street with camo prints (looks 6 & 8), and the crux of the collection: A patchwork fur behemoth spliced with fish scale sleeves (look 26). Did someone say fashion?
GIORGIO ARMANI: CLASSIC CODES
The inspiration: Nevermind the fact that the fashion world is currently undergoing an eclectic sweeping change galvanised by a certain Gucci man, and that the infectious vintage-loving intellectual has worn down even the steeliest of designers. Giorgio Armani is a man who stands by his own code. Declaring FW16 the season of 'Black Velvet', the ingenius couturier kept his ready-to-wear collection quiet as usual, but not without injecting a sense of Armani loucheness for that extra cool factor.
The collection: Of course, inky velvet served as the pillars of the collection — it manifested in sharp tailored trousers, laidback culottes and elegant jumpsuits (looks 6, 8 & 17). Just like Armani, the fabric's luxurious quality spoke for itself, without the need for decadent embellishments and embroidery. Wool blends also made it onto the designer's runway, presented in traditional suiting and coats finessed with softer edges for the brand's more feminine clientele (looks 16 & 18).
Lesson learnt: How not to wear a floral mohair suit (look 24). Not the easiest to maintain — think of the insane shedding that will have you questioning: "Outfit or pet dog?" — but, madly ingenious anyway. We'll just appreciate this one from afar.
For all our coverage of Milan Fashion Week fall/winter 2016, click here.