Best shows from LFW SS18 Day 3: Mary Katrantzou, Versus Versace and Topshop Unique
London Fashion Week
MARY KATRANTZOU: CHILD'S PLAY
The inspiration: Titling her SS18 collection "The 'Youth' of a Year", queen of print Mary Katrantzou looked to childhood nostalgia for inspiration. Not just her childhood, but an "idealized infancy" as outlined in her show notes. Everything from childhood pastimes to playthings — think: Lego, Hama beads, Crayola scrawls were the starting point for her saccharine yet sophisticated lineup.
The collection: Katrantzou certainly did not hold back on recalling her inner child. Silhouettes were inflated, embellishments were maxed out, and colourways were unabashedly vibrant. Probably the most surprising creative decision was the use of nylon, the kind you find on camping sites, kites and birthday balloons. Paired alongside drawstring waistlines, the material was surprisingly elevated into cocktail-worthy wear. If you're picky about your prints, Katrantzou has you covered — from Vichy checks (looks 19 to 21) to floral psychedelia (looks 2, 3, 4, 8, 9, 33 to 37), there's one for every style maven.
I spy: An emerging pattern of designers employing a lime sherbet shade (looks 12, 14, 19). Considering Pantone's Colour of the Year, Greenery, it should come as no surprise that this botanical hue is infiltrating the runway.
VERSUS VERSACE: EXTRA IS THE NEW COOL
The set: Held in the prestigious Central Saint Martins, the campus saw their walls made over to showcase massive Post-It murals that read 'VERSUS'.
The collection: As the edgier sibling of the Versace name, Versus delivered nothing short of an electrifying line up of skimpy minis, longline vests and skin-baring numbers. This season, Donatella Versace was generous with grey plaid rendered in both apparel and accessories, including the reclaimed bucket hat. Prints took on a refreshingly modern and millennial sensibility, as they seemed reminiscent of online micro-genre, Vaporwave (looks 14, 20, 21, 22). Overall, this was a collection dedicated to youth expression, and Donatella was determined to stand out, not blend in.
Front row: FKA Twigs, Lottie Moss and Caroline Vreeland were amongst the star-studded guest list.
TOPSHOP UNIQUE: SOHO SPIRIT
The inspiration: The grit and gleam of Soho's '90s nightlife scene that caught the eye of photographer Corinne Day.
The collection: The Topshop girl never sleeps and the garments reflect just that. Personifying the spirit of '90s night outs, statement pieces were made for everyone's inner magpie. See: Metallic outerwear, second-skin buttercream dresses and miniskirts decked out in diamante. then there were the boudoir influences that made for ultra-sheer blouses and feather-trimmed baby doll numbers. Closing the show was a parade of the classic jean-tee combo, with each model's name written across their chests.
A surprise: Fancy yourself an eponymous T-shirt? You can customise your very own at London's flagship store starting today.
Catch up on all coverage from London Fashion Week spring/summer 2018.