Best shows from LFW FW17 Day 2: Anya Hindmarch, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, Mulberry and Mary Katrantzou
London Fashion Week
ANYA HINDMARCH: ALPINE FANTASY
The set: Doused in diffused purple lighting, the set was constructed of prismatic panels that were angled to form a mountain. The runway scaled the structure in a zig-zag manner, where models would traipse up and down in equally inventive ensembles.
The inspiration: Titled "Vetr" (which translates to "winter" in Icelandic), Anya Hindmarch's fall/winter 2017 show was inspired by the contrast between the romanticism of winter and wanderlust and the darker elements of Old Norse folklore. Enlisting Scandinavian Turbots — a Swedish folk art style — as a central motif, this collection gave deserving credit to its references, with a strong story to tell.
The collection: With its retro palette of sunset hues and pastel shades, this collection might just have redefined the clichés of dreary winter. Assembling an array of Nordic knits paired with high-waisted bloomers (looks 9, 14, 25 & 26), the lineup was reminiscent of Scandi charm in the thick of January. Longhair shearling outerwear (looks 10, 15, 23, 28 & 31) received luxurious treatment, alongside motifs that resulted from handwoven leatherwork and leather marquetry (looks 2, 6, 13, 16, 18, 29, 30 & 38).
PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI: NO RULES
The collection: Helming designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi were certainly headed for a sultrier direction with their showcase this season. Pulling influences from a myriad of subcultural styles, there was a notable play on opacity and proportion on the runway. Dark winter florals (looks 2, 4, 5, 6, 7 & 8) sought to offset the primness of Victorian ruffled collars (looks 3 & 11). Duvet-sized puffas (looks 34 & 35) and ruched hemlines (looks 22 & 23) made a case for ostentatious outerwear.
Buro loves: That layering of a crisp bustier with a singular floral motif (look 14) over a sheer clingy midi.
Lesson learnt: There's no such thing as clashing prints — as proven by Thornton and Bregazzi's unmatched styling game.
MULBERRY: EQUESTRIAN ELEGANCE
The collection: Staying true to the Mulberry ethos, English heritage and culture served yet again as the base of the brand's fall/winter 2017 collection. This season, creative director Johnny Coca looked to the life and styles of the British aristocracy as inspiration — employing sturdy tweeds, lush silks, and — you guessed it — checks on checks on checks. A real sense of haberdashery was palpable with the collage of textiles and print, but a modern update that kept the lineup current was a series of vivid slimline doily lace dresses (looks 27, 34 & 36). Utilitarian quilting was added to lustred capes (looks 46, 47, 48, 49 & 50), lending an air of grandeur to each ensemble.
Worth the investment: Any Mulberry accessory, given its heirloom-worthy quality and timelessness to last generations.
Favourite look: That ginger high-neck paired with a rich imperial purple midi, complete with mint sock boots (look 33).
MARY KATRANTZOU: OPTICAL FEAST
The collection: When it comes to Mary Katrantzou, rest assured there will be no lapse in attention to detail. Serving up almost celestial arrangement of crystals and mythical imagery (looks 31 to 38), fall/winter 2017 saw ethereal pieces that only continue the Katrantzou narrative from where it left off last season. Voluminous furs (looks 1, 13 & 17) were worn with unassuming plaid, yet Katrantzou didn't hold back when it came to her dresses — prints resembling geode crystals were rendered on pleats, sequins, and cascading silk (looks 27, 28, 29 & 30).
I spy: The return of supersized shoulders (looks 1, 14 & 15). If spring 2017 was all about the extra-long sleeve, we foresee big shoulders coming right back along with the eighties revival we've been seeing all season.
Try this now: Don't be afraid to opt for a busy print (look 2), but look out for visually manipulative patterns that serve to accentuate your favourite features.
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