Five thoughts on Loewe's 'Show in the News' autumn/winter 2021 collection
Hot off the press
'The Loewe show has been cancelled." That's what was splashed across the newspaper that Loewe sent out to fashion editors and insiders the world over. It was another one of creative director Jonathan Anderson's non-traditional way of presenting a new collection as a substitute for not being able to hold its regular seasonal fashion shows. And what an autumn/winter 2021 collection it was.
A 'Show in the News' packaged in a time capsule
The headline perhaps may have alluded to cancel culture (or maybe it was a subtle dig at Dolce&Gabbana's actual cancelled show back in 2018) but the show went on albeit in a different format. Loewe's 'Show in the News' came in a metal box emblazoned with the brand's Anagram logo and the official date of the collection's reveal. Packaged inside was the newspaper with a chapter of Danielle Steel's latest novel The Affair slipped in between, a letter opener, and a limited edition print by creative studio M/M (Paris). And of course, everything was quite artfully done.
Forget about deep autumnal colours; it was all vibrant and bold
Anderson likened the autumn/winter 2021 collection to colour therapy — that vibrant and bold colours can uplift moods. Sure there were infusions of hues typical of the season but a bulk of the collection made use of incredibly bright colours in the form of graphic lines and patterns that at times seemed to reference the '60s.
The silhouettes took on exaggerated forms through an exploration of draping, further accentuated by slipping fabric through geometric rings that became recurring elements seen throughout the collection. Sleeves were also reworked through more experimental means. At times there were voluminous and strong with added cape-like structures, while more subtle interpretations created rounded and boyish shoulders.
Accessories were fashioned into bags
Loewe is known for its leather mastery that has extended into everything from bags of multiple sizes to accessories that serve more than one purpose. For autumn/winter 2021, Anderson explored the idea of turning a pair of bangles into functional accessories that were more than mere decorations. Designed using a pleated piece of leather, the bracelet bag (as Anderson called it) fastens together at the mirrored metallic bases, ensuring that the accessory still resembled a piece of jewellery. The best thing is, they looked like they had sufficient room for the most bare essentials.
The debut of a new timeless handbag
Save for maybe the Barcelona and Postal bags, Loewe's bags are rather softly constructed; until now, that is. The autumn/winter 2021 season introduced a hardier and more structured silhouette in the form of the Goya. It's a rather minimalistic design — a straightforward front-flap handbag with a hidden magnetic closure — embellished only with the Loewe Anagram. And while it might seem like a departure from the usual for the brand, it's bound to be a new classic that we'd probably see come in more colours and variations in subsequent collections as well as Loewe's artist collaborations.
A Loewe icon made new
With all the new creations that Anderson has introduced thus far since taking creative helm of the brand, the season also reintroduced the Amazona. The bag was first conceived in 1975 and has seen countless variations over the years. And while it has remained a mainstay at Loewe, the autumn/winter's interpretation is the freshest yet. Instead of a leather or suede construction, the Amazona bag has been reworked in a Loewe Anagram jacquard (a motif that Anderson introduced in spring/summer 2021) and trimmed in nappa leather. It's also been topped off with an engraved lock in place of the usual leather name tag. In other words: super chic.