Best shows from LFW SS18 Day 1: Teatum Jones, Fyodor Golan, Eudon Choi and Ralph & Russo
London Fashion Week
TEATUM JONES: RIDE SALLY RIDE
The inspiration: The sequel to their year-long exploration of the human form, titled The Body, Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones are picking up from where they left off last season. The label's SS18 instalment pays homage to British para-equestrian and eleven-time Olympic medalist, Natasha Baker.
The collection: Drapery and summer tailoring were the leading memo here, which turns out to be the perfect technical approach for Teatum Jones, as the pieces neither swallowed nor skimmed the body. Think easy, breezy maxi numbers with asymmetric hems (looks 3, 4, 6 & beyond) and effortless monochrome suiting (looks 12, 17 & 27). With shades of duck egg blue, salmon and moss green, the lineup was reminiscent of the equestrian views no stranger to Baker.
Buro loves: The commitment to a diverse representation on the runway. Teatum Jones has spearheaded inclusive casting on the catwalk for multiple seasons now, and we don't see why other brands shouldn't be following suit.
FYODOR GOLAN: SARTORIAL MELTDOWN
The collection: Climate change is as real outside as it was on the Fyodor Golan runway. The dynamic duo behind the label, Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman, dialed up the heat in this collection by imagining their muses in a world where temperatures have exceeded human tolerance. Spanning every ray on the UV spectrum, expect everything from your tame ochres to in-your-face ceruleans and violets. With streamlined midis (looks 8 & 13) and slouchy tracksuits (looks 14, 21 & 27), silhouettes were decidedly well-behaved. The underdogs of the show, statement accessories —sometimes donned solo — deserve a shoutout.
The set: In tandem with the dystopian premise, the runway showcased British sculptor Tony Gragg's almost-alien sculptures.
Something you might have missed: The brand is known for their collaborations with household names, from the likes of My Little Pony and the Transformers to Coca Cola and Post-It. This season, they teamed up with renowned lollipop brand Chupa Chups for its 60th anniversary — which explains the giant lollipops found on the front row seats.
EUDON CHOI: RIVIERA STATE OF MIND
The inspiration: Continuing his architectural exploration, the menswear-trained Choi takes inspiration from modernist designer Eileen Gray's E-1027 house, a villa in the south of France.
The collection: Like the E-1027, the lineup is a refined balance of style and utility. Comprised of roomy trousers and nonchalant shirting, Choi's SS18 collection is a carefully curated ensemble of pieces that transcend occasion and time of day. And if you thought straw bags were a thing of the past, think again. They're here to stay, but Choi's renditions are notably more structured and formal.
Favourite look: The Tuscan yellow button-through dress layered over a voluminous white top, topped with monochrome accessories (look 11).
RALPH & RUSSO: A-LIST MATERIAL
The collection: With the Hollywood gang comprising the likes of Beyoncé, Jennifer Lawrence and Angelina Jolie on their resume, Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo have set themselves a high bar to top. And their recent SS18 offering is nothing short of red-carpet-worthy — an assortment of glamorous gowns and high-shine metallic numbers seems right up the alley of Tinseltown's biggest names. Luxe finishes were clearly on their radar, judging from the generous dose of pearls, crystals and high-shine satin and sheer textiles.
Buro loves: The tiered ruffled ensemble in full-on lilac (look 4). We can't wait to see this during the awards season.
Try this now: Play up the drama of your night-time looks by swapping out your usual pinstripe trouser for a waxier finish (look 11). The beauty industry has already hopped on the glossy bandwagon — why not fashion?
Catch up on all coverage of London Fashion Week spring/summer 2018.