Best shows from LFW FW17 Day 3: Roksanda, Erdem, Christopher Kane and Burberry
London Fashion Week
ROKSANDA: MOODBOARD MUSE
The collection: A poignant tribute to the late Richard Nicoll, Roksanda Ilincic opened her show with his signature Pantone shade of blue (look 1). What followed was a rich palette of Rothko-esque hues, applied to loose silhouettes in autumnal plissé (looks 2, 3, 4 & 5). Occasional splashes of electric blue took the form of sculptural coats (looks 12 & 15), quilted robes (look 23) and full-on ensembles (look 27). This time, Ilincic's signature shapes were cinched in with knotted leather cords, an almost artisanal alternative to the usual buckled belt.
Favourite look: That bold cobalt coat paired with a tan fur vest, layered over burgundy plaid with threads in primary colours (look 12).
Buro loves: The subtly show-stopping lineup of outerwear. From the piped in shades of crimson and mustard on the lapels (look 8) to the quilted finish (looks 23 & 25), no details were glossed over.
ERDEM: DAYS OF FUTURE PAST
The inspiration: We suspect Erdem Moralioglu's favourite subject in school was history. Evidences are aplenty at the designer's 17th century-esque spring/summer 2017 collection and the strong hints at the Edwardian era in his season prior to last. If his current take on the bygone feels a lot more personal, that's because it is. Born to Turkish and English parents and raised in Canada, the British designer lets his diversity — we shall call it his internal compass — be the guiding force behind this more-relevant-than-meets-the-eye collection.
The collection: Rich velvet not unpopular during the Ottoman Empire has taken a permanent residency in fashion, whether worn in splendid excess (looks 18, 20, 21, 23, 30 & 32), married with delicate lace in patchworks (look 33) or gracing the sleeves of familiar florals (look 1, 4 & 34). On the other side of the coin was a modest appreciation of the countryside, both Turkish — shown in high-octane stripes (looks 9, 37 & 38) — and English — shown in muted doily embroidery over modest voile (looks 26, 27, 28 & 29).
Try this now: Flirty ruffles with chunky flatform sandals (look 14).
CHRISTOPHER KANE: GET BACK TO WORK
The inspiration: It's no secret that Christopher Kane detests the restless nature of the fashion industry. "As soon as I've done a collection, people are asking me about the next one. But I've just done one. Give me a break, why not?" the designer expressed in an interview with Buro last year. Which is why fall 2017's linchpin of 'Craft and Work' hardly came as a surprise; a collection born of his fixation du jour: Factory workers. Who also happen to be the folk swept up by fashion's high-speed carousel perpetuated by you, me and the next fashion hungry Insta-addict.
The collection: A regurgitation of blue collar shirting would be an insult to artistry. Instead, the designer's statement was rooted in simplicity. Tawny knitwear and overcoats (looks 2 & 4); streamlined, holographic ensembles (looks 10, 27, 38 & 40); and nondescript duo-toned trenches and dresses (looks 13 & 15) were given the Kane treatment by way of iconic floral appliqués (looks 43 & 45) — a pared-back outing by the designer's standards. For those looking to drop the dollar on a new season purchase, keep your eyes peeled for the runway Safety Buckle Devine bags that have gone straight to retail in brick-and-mortars and on the web.
Favourite look: That belted topcoat in workwear grey with holographic stripes (look 32). It's what we imagine Inspector Gadget would pack for an intergalactic trip — befitting seeing how Kane literally sent one of his bags into outerspace to mark his foray into 'see now, buy now', a burning immediacy that he's resisted until now. Welcome to the club, lad.
BURBERRY: CLASSICS, REIMAGINED
The collection: Taking place at London's Maker's House, creative director Christopher Bailey unveiled the second installment of Burberry's 'see now, buy now' endeavour. The collection saw an array of deconstructed shirts (looks 30 & 32), asymmetric knits (looks 2, 3, 6, 10, 11, 12, 15, 22, 52 & 76) and rope-formed designs (looks 15, 59 & 62), bringing a more abstract approach to the Burberry narrative. Notice the classic trench — it was updated with larger collars in shades of pale blue and beige.
Try this now: Take a cue from the styling direction by elevating cosy pieces — think your go-to jersey sweater — with dressier pieces that only make an appearance on special occasions (look 52).
Favourite look: The lopsided cable knit layered over a shirtdress, reinvented with sheer ornate detailing (look 10).