In his menswear runway debut for Coach, Stuart Vevers presents a bold new chapter for the all-American brand
Stuart Vevers is the man you call for a make-over.
The Brit reinvented British leather house Mulberry from a traditional and stuffy brand into a modern day must-have through a line of covetable bags; and for Loewe, one of the oldest luxury houses in the world, was pivotal in the strategic reformation of the maison by stripping it down to simplicity and functionality. It's with this same creative spirit that Vevers has driven Coach to a new dawn for spring 2016.
Appointed executive creative director of the American brand since 2013, Vevers has been realigning Coach to appeal to a younger and more cosmopolitan audience — for example, this year saw partnerships with Zoe Kravitz at Coachella and Dree Hemingway at the Met Ball. However, the changes thus far (think: brighter colours and modernised bag shapes) although significant, have been rather incremental. That is, until now.
For Vevers' second menswear collection for Coach — but his first menswear runway show for the house — the brand has entered into an energetic new chapter.
On a skate ramp-inspired runway, models swaggered down with '60s West Coast psychedelic prints emblazoned over hoodies, tees and blousons trimmed with black leather detailing. On other pieces, tiger and wildcat prints were patchworked on Harrington jackets or plastered over crew neck pullovers and trucker jackets. Gone was the Coach of yesteryear with its conservative cuts and hues, and marching boldly into the future, a refreshed collection targeted at the digital Millenial.
As with Coach's expertise, accessories exist only to rival for attention. Animal and psychedelic prints ran through sneakers and chunky slides (accented with fur) and, merging the best of both worlds, there was even a slider with sneaker detailing at the front. In terms of functionality, the bags weren't groundbreaking — the usual suspects by way of bag packs, totes and briefcases accompanied the show, dressed in the collection's textures and prints. However, the fanny pack made a welcome return. And renamed the "hip pack" by Vevers, it served to re-confirm the designer's vision: Ascension to high fashion's 'in' crowd. Buckle up, it's going to be a magic carpet ride.
To read all our coverage on London Collections: Men SS16, click here.