Show reviews: Highlights from LCM fall/winter 2016 — Day 3
All about the prints
J.W.ANDERSON: SNAIL TRAIL
The details: Snails, snails and more snails. Snail motifs appeared as a pattern in all sizes on many an ensemble in the playful collection. Cartoon characters were splashed across sheer long-sleeved crewnecks (look 13) and shirt-jackets with exaggerated lapels (look 6), while patterned furs enlivened trusty Macks (look 17). Wrestling high-top pointed-toe booties grounded every look.
The collection: Jonathan Anderson balanced the scales between covering up with chunky knits (looks 3, 9 & 10), and baring skin with deep V-necks (looks 2, 7 & 30). Between the transparent embellished chokers and the collection's rakish styling — such as, a purple-grey silk-satin suit worn over a T-shirt — Anderson as always, showcased his own personal paradigm of menswear.
Try it now: Flared sleeves on wool knits (look 24). Experiment by tying a grosgrain ribbon around the sleeves of your jumpers, cinching the ends to create that flare.
Something you might have missed: As a first, the show was streamed live on the same sex dating app, Grindr.
CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN: INTO THE WILD
The inspiration: Mongolia's lush natures and traditional colours worn by nomadic herders. Christopher Raeburn also harnessed the elusive and endangered snow leopard for prints on knits (looks 17 & 18).
The collection: Keeping the brand's aesthetic in tow, the FW16 collection not only featured waterproof anoraks for a Mongolian hike, but there was also a balance of urban flare with knit and jersey jumpers under bomber jackets. Even the bags ranged from camouflage prints to frayed denim, displaying Raeburn's ability to cater to the urban traveller as well as a nature seeker.
Soundtrack: Dominic Harwood's atmospheric sounds of the jungle — from falling rain to horses galloping. The models also walked to the beat of traditional drums and aboriginal horns.
Buro loves: The harmonious marriage between functionality and fashion as the collection stayed true to its protective outerwear that retained its wearability. Apart from the last two looks of the collection which seemed to come out of left field with models in exaggerated coats, Raeburn certaintly nailed doing the runway the real way.
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: AN EVOLUTION
The inspiration: Sarah Burton cited Charles Darwin as a source of inspiration for the collection, and it was entirely palpable with monkey-printed silk tunics (look 4) and butterfly motif suits (look 8) kicking off the show.
The collection: It was a Victorian affair, with the era's mainstays — longline jackets, ruffled plackets and waistcoats — the glue of the 32 ensemble collection. True to the label's gothic sensibilities, monochrome and crimson was the base palette, serving as a blank canvas to the Darwinian insect motifs. Burton's recreation of the Victorian epoch was so convincing, that the occasional white sneaker actually functioned as a reminder that it was simply a peek into the past — rich history brought to life by the designer's imagination.
The set: The ornately decorated Durbar Court inside Whitehall's historic Foreign Office. The tiers of red granite columns and arches contrasted white marble floors, and were tools in the time machine Burton constructed for FW16.
Something you might have missed: The facial piercings sported by several of the models (looks 3 & 28), amplifying the gothic vibes in the cavernous hall where the show took place.
MOSCHINO: WORK OF ART
The collection: Jeremy Scott sent out a mashup of neon colours, artist-inspired details, and a little bit of punk for his latest men's collection for Moschino. Scott collaborated with British artists Gilbert & George to have their works displayed on most of the collection, evoking a certain Warholian feel. In summary, it was a hyper colour and print extravaganza and we expected no less from the designer.
The hair and make-up: Heralding the '90s punk movement, models sported colourful hair streaks and had bright paint dusted on the ears. So rave party ready.
I spy: Boots sprayed and dyed that will function as a much-needed bright to any monochrome ensemble.
Top models: Jourdan Dunn closed the show hand in hand with Scott himself, giving him a congratulatory kiss at the end. Male models-of-the-moment Rob Evans and Lucky Blue Smith had their game faces on for the show.
DUNHILL: GENTLEMAN'S CLUB
The collection: Designer John Ray made sure that there was an outfit for every occassion. Starting off with ensembles inspired by race-car drivers from the 1950s, handsome durable leather coats lined with rich shearling segued into softer silhouettes and luxury blend fabrics — the perfect country weekend ensemble. It ended with a chapter dedicated to evening soirées — or nights at a gentleman's lounge — with inky smoking jackets cut from exquisite velvet.
The set: The Savile Club was the perfect setting for the Dunhill presentation. Put together to resemble a gentleman's home, contemporary art filled the space and complemented the clothes perfectly — a cosy nook that echoed sophistication, class and finesse. Models lounged on club chairs, equipped with the essentials of a Dunhill man: An Old Fashioned and a good read.
Try it now: A pair of reading glasses are the new accessory. Pairing scholarly checks to power pinstripes with dark acetate frames, take a cue from Dunhill FW16 and ease yourself in by popping on a (convincing) pair with a preppy outfit.
Related Story: Street Style: London Men's Fashion Week — Day 3
To read all our coverage of London Collections: Men fall/winter 2016, click here.