Best shows from PMFW FW18: Juun.J, Cerruti 1881 and Berluti
Paris Men's Fashion Week
Reporting from the City of Lights, Buro's digital editorial director, Norman Tan, gives us the low-down on his favourite collections from Paris Men's Fashion Week. Simply click the 'Listen in browser' button below and listen to him provide his fresh take of all the runway action via his daily audio reviews.
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JUUN.J: ARCTIC WINTER
Designer: Jung Wook Jun
Synopsis: It's freezing in Paris this season — something about a storm in the UK causing a cold front to hit France — so it was rather apt that Korean designer Jung Wook Jun presented a collection that was replete with quilted down. A plaid suit presented with a black down jacket tied around the neck like a sculptural scarf; an elongated sleeve top coat worn over a hooded quilted parka; then a full-length hooded puffer with a lining of neon yellow worn with a black baseball cap (the same hat sent to press as an invitation to the show). It's interesting to see neon yellow rear its head twice now — once at Louis Vuitton yesterday and now at Juun.J. Whilst the inspiration for the shock shade at Vuitton was climbing apparel and ropes, over at Juun.J, given the pulsating static of the soundtrack that played overhead, it's more rave than roving mountaineer.
CERRUTI 1881: GET WAISTED
Designer: Jason Basmajian
Synopsis: It's always fascinating to see how a designer envisions a collection for his customer and maison. For spring 2018, Jason Basmajian placed the Cerruti 1881 man on the balmy beaches of Miami — with floral prints and summer white suiting — but for fall/winter 2018, we're back in the city. From military green shearling jackets to graphic peak lapel coats and woolen camel blazers (worn with their lapels flipped up), Basmajian styled the outerwear with either bumbags, sporty metal buckle and clip belts, or the devastatingly on trend super long leather belt (punched with bright silver grommets) — all tied over the garments for a cinched silhouette. Urban yet sartorial. Strong, and very on point. In short, the Cerruti 1881 man is getting waisted. Knitwear came in the form of exaggerated turtle necks — their necks so high that they folded down upon themselves to form lapels — tucked into high-waisted single-pleat trousers (cut short to show off the ankle) and featuring a thick extended band closure to, again, accentuate the mid-section. Beautiful. Must buy.
BERLUTI: LOSING MY MIND
Designer: Haider Ackermann
Synopsis: A Haider Ackermann show is always poetic in the sense that it's effortless and unaffected — as much as that's possible for a fashion show — with the models walking casually, looking around and engaging with the audience, as if they're ambling down the street. However, for the Berluti fall/winter 2018 menswear show (held in one of the salons of the Grand Palais), not only did the models walk sporadically and at different speeds, but they traipsed up and down the runway in both directions. The audience was swinging their heads back and forth like they would during a tennis match. When it came to the clothes, it was a lesson in understated cool. Ackermann presenting monochromatic ensembles devoid of patterns or prints, thereby, letting the beauty of the leather (this is Berluti, after all) take centre stage. Highlights? That ecru yellow leather trench that started the show; that black leather blouson worn over a longer black leather single-breasted blazer; those high-shine crocodile leather Chelseas (amazing); that white cotton twill jacket with crocodile leather trim on the underside of the lapels; that impossibly decadent belted shearling robe coat; and, my favourite, a sumptuous baby blue leather used for a truncated blouson and a stunning straight-cut trouser. The soundtrack couldn't have been more appropriate — an acapella version of Liza Minnelli's 'Losing My Mind'. Mysterious, magnificent, and magical.
Listen to all our audio reviews of the best menswear shows from Paris Men's Fashion Week fall/winter 2018.