Highlights from NYFW SS16 — Day 8
Going out with a bang
Ralph Lauren: Red, white and blue
To attend a Ralph Lauren show is to be transported into the designer's vision of the American dream: An all-white ensemble topped with a sailor's hat for sun-kissed weekends aboard the family yacht; a leather moto jacket in a sumptuous shade of tan for Manhattan meetings; and strapless gowns in vivid summery hues for evening cocktails in the Hamptons. Life is a beach, and for spring/summer 2016, this translated into swimwear-inspired strap dresses (we're fans of the red cross-body iteration) and a closing procession of diaphanous evening pieces crafted from crisp cotton broadcloth. Bravo. Standing O.
Marc Jacobs: Rebel heart
It's not a Madonna concert (who, coincidentally, was performing a few blocks away at Madison Square Gardens), but given all the trademark Marc Jacobs showmanship, sequins and dark eyeshadow, you'd be forgiven for the confusion. Held at the famous Ziegfeld theatre, models paraded a kaleidoscopic collection rich in colour and details. From a star-spangled banner reimagined as a belted coat with a fur collar, to the ethereal closing look crafted from gold metallic lace and embroidered with two swans in a loving embrace, it was a no holds barred collection stamped out in time to a live big band and, despite its diversity, was artfully held together by a rebellious punk heart. Favourite pieces? The full-length double-breasted coat plastered with pop art faces and Joan Small's macrame dress anchored with satin lace-up boots.
Calvin Klein Collection: Chain gang
Normally a minimalist affair with clean lines and a subdued colour palette, designer Francisco Costa brought about a fresh change to Calvin Klein Collection for spring/summer 2016 with the surprising introduction of digital floral prints on shifts, separates and sensual coats. Loyalists to the traditional Calvin Klein aesthetic were still catered for by way of nude leather dresses (with deep-V necklines) and monochrome suits and jackets (rehashed in louche silhouettes), but it was Costa's juxtaposition of smooth silk and hardware — the clever reinterpretation of the brand's iconic slip dress with brass chain embellishments (left dangling and unravelling on unfinished hems) — that truly impressed.
To read all our coverage on New York Fashion Week SS16, click here.