Highlights from NYFW SS16 — Day 7
The whimsical and the fancy
Suno: Transeasonal tribe
Never ones to ring in the summer with a contrived myriad of bright hues, designers Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty delivered their signature palette of neutrals for SS16: White, olive and muted shades of blue spelled spring for Suno. But this time around, there was a brief dip mid-way through into the deep hues that usually command their fall offerings, and the collection in its entirety subscribed to neither season.
Osterweis and Beatty lived up to the compelling colour-blocking and prints that they've come to be known for, and opted for abstract interpretations of florals. Silhouettes swung between the easy-going and controlled — half the outerwear, dresses and tops were belted, while the rest hung loose and free. And, after a long-term partnership with Nicholas Kirkwood for their runway footwear, their SS16 collection saw the debut of their very own shoe line. Slip-on sneakers, leather sandals and (high-cut) pumps were their initial offerings.
Michael Kors: Down to earth
Romantic, earthy and oh-so wearable is how we would describe Michael Kors SS16 collection. Femininity flourished in the form of ruffles, delicate pleating and embroidered blooms, but never without a little sex appeal. Tailored silhouettes were made loose and relaxed. For the American sportswear designer, it's not just about selling clothes — it's about dreaming up a lifestyle for his customers. And this season, it's about embracing one's natural glamour in easy luxe pieces cinched at the waist with wide, thin or wrap-around belts.
Delpozo: Sculpted bohemia
Just when we thought that we're getting a tad jaded with the on-going bohemian trend, Josep Font made us think again. Who would have thought that folklore and boho ease could be magically weaved into stunning prêt-à-couture creations at Delpozo. This season, Font was inspired by Federico García Lorca's book, Gypsy Ballads and Gustav Klimt's muse, Emilie Flöge. And each piece in its exaggerated proportions, clean lines, rich textures and intricate workmanship (those hand-crocheted raffia blooms) were true fairytale folklore creations brought to life, including Delpozo's debut bag collection paraded by every model during the finale walk.
Designer Jason Wu made sure that there was something for everyone in the Boss spring/summer collection. Sensuality came in the form of an alluring low-cut fringed shift dress, given shape by a belted waist. Androgyny was well represented in the jacket and cropped trousers ensembles, while daffodil yellow numbers took care of the sweet and youthful.
But of course, the elegant Boss woman was not forgotten — figure-hugging and off-shoulder mid-calf structured dresses made sure of that. With Bauhaus principles in mind, Wu gave his classic womenswear a twist with asymmetrical cuts, abstract prints and panels of finely pleated semi-sheer fabric on most of his ensembles. All in all, the widely varied collection accomplished its aim, and will satisfy the many sides to a woman.
DKNY: She means business
How does one step into the shoes of one of the most respected American female designers? You don't. Instead, you build on your predecessor's strongest suits (quite literally) and put your own signature street wear spin to it. And that's precisely what Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne did for their debut collection at DKNY. Classic tailored suitings such as pinstripes and white shirts were reincarnated and reconstructed with strict yet casual ease. From the refined silhouettes and concise focus on business wear, it is clear that the DKNY girl has grown up and is finally ready to be taken seriously.
Marchesa: Flight of fancy
Drawing inspiration from caged birds, the Marchesa runway was as usual, at the height of glamour with this season's cascading ruffles and floral motif embellishments. Interestingly, the collection kicked off with sheer gowns that resembled basques from the waist up. While Thakoon took pyjamas out of the bedroom with his collection earlier this season, designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig preferred provocative lingerie.
The faintest shades of pastels on sweeping organza gowns segued into harsh, inky black on enhanced silhouettes that looked almost predatory. It then transitioned into cool tones of dusty green and ice blue, before closing with a whirlwind of rich pastels. Appliquéd florals and embellished sequin discs peppered the gowns, rounding off the collection in true Marchesa fashion.
Proenza Schouler: Flamenco flounce
Trust Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez to take major runway trends of the season and make it impeccably cool and covetable. On the second last day of NYFW, it has become clear that off-the-shoulder cut-outs, ruffles, and mesh are key trends of next spring/summer. Digging deep into Hernandez's Latin roots and Cuba, the collection was nothing short of uniquely crafty. Pom poms, feathers and grosgrain ribbons (also spotted at Oscar de La Renta) added touches of Spanish influence to the flouncy silhouettes. All in all, this is one sartorial fiesta we're ready to don and dance the night away in.
To read all our coverage on NYFW SS16, click here