Highlights from NYFW SS16 — Day 6
On a deeper level
Tory Burch: Beauty in unexpected places
Spring/summer has always been Tory Burch's strongest collections, and this season was no exception with her signature blend of ethnic and preppy. Inspired by beauty enhanced over time, her SS16 show was one coloured in rich textures, intricate embroidery and ornate detailing — balanced against simple relaxed shapes and natural fabrics. And like her inspiration, we found beauty not only in her ready-to-wear pieces, but also in the accessories. Tweed fringe bags, ornamental necklaces and those sculptural metallic heels (inspired by a slice of natural tree bark) are what we're putting on our next season's wish list.
Rodarte: Pretty poetic
Kate and Laura Mulleavy have never been designers who conform to the norm or commercial appeal — evident once again in their SS16 collection that at one glance could have been mistaken for a fall/winter runway show. But it is, in fact, spring/summer, and the Mulleavy sisters took inspiration from poetry by Elizabeth Barrett Browning, Emily Dickinson and Leonard Cohen. Each piece — in a dark collage of lace, silk, velvet, embroidery and beading — is said to present an esoteric reading and interpretation of the intricate layers found in poetry. And only in true Rodarte fashion was the '70s rock 'n' roll rendered in sequined and beaded trouser suits, neck scarves and shaggy shrugs.
Coach: All out Americana
For Coach's debut womenswear runway show, creative director Stuart Vevers took a field trip to The High Line, inviting guests to wander into fields of wild grass and flowers. The landscape set the tone for the brand's SS16 biker chic meets Little House on Prairie collection. Patchworking took form in everything: From multi-coloured liberty printed dresses to leather skirts, jackets and, most notably, the shoes. Vevers has always had a knack for reimagining American countercultures for urbanites, but the real takeaway from this collection was certainly still the statement leather goods.
Oscar de la Renta: Dark romance
The single carnation placed on every seat of the SS16 show was not only Oscar de la Renta's favourite bloom, but also represented the colour and print scattered on several dresses throughout the collection. Artistic director, Peter Copping's second collection for the storied house was influenced by a visit to the Hispanic Society of America museum in Harlem, New York. Weaving elements of Hispanic culture throughout the show — for example, the deep red colour and its reference to bullfighting or the rope-soled espadrille paired with elegant gowns — was a beautiful reinterpretation of the spirit and grace associated with the house of de la Renta.
To read all our coverage on NYFW SS16, click here.