Highlights from NYFW SS16 — Day 4
A day of firsts
Victoria Beckham: Surf's up
Simply put, Victoria Beckham surprised this season: She passed up her usual figure-hugging structured cuts for shift dresses and breezy slits, along with a wave of (much welcomed) graphics and prints that cemented the unprecendented design direction.
Burgundy and olive green gingham emerged on floor-length ensembles, with tastefully low-cut necklines that freed the textile of its time-worn repute. Surf images from the '60s were expertly married and contrasted with colour-blocks, checks and florals, much to our delight. And the slinky crinkled dress? That, by our books, was the biggest departure for Beckham, away from her past dictated by an immaculate and orderly design code. If this spells the beginning of a new vein for the designer, count us completely and irrevocably on board.
Public School: All grown up
For designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, a sports-inspired aesthetic was what their label was built upon — and not just a passing seasonal inspiration. Cleaning up well from last season's '90s grunge-infused collection, SS16 saw the Public School DNA elevated with a sophisticated spin. At first glance, billowing robes, sleek silk trousers and belted long-line throw overs seemed to defy their usual streetwear offering, but a closer look revealed the brand's very foundation seamlessly woven in.
Latticed knitwear brought the edge and bomber jackets amped up the attitude, all anchored neatly in true Public School essence by windbreakers. The difference however, is that the collection appeals to a wider audience this time around — the minimalist that looks to the brand this season, will not come out empty-handed.
Thakoon: Blurred lines
In light of Thakoon Panichgul's SS16 offering, sleepwear will see daylight and beachwear, indoors. Thin, cotton pyjama-esque get-ups and skin-tight, plunging bodysuits — that resemble swimsuits with their tropical prints — were paraded, while sheer robes obscured other pant-less ensembles.
But at the very core of it, the Thakoon woman still emerged, more so from the styling of the collection than anything else. The feminine yet defiant spirit shone through in the outfits paired with outerwear lopped over, a testament to the Thakoon and unconventional way of dressing up. The collection's running thread is the defiance of protocol and dress code. That, and the abundance of skin on show.
Diane von Furstenberg: Tropical delight
Roman goddess, Fortuna was the muse behind Diane von Furstenberg's spring/summer 2016 collection. Light and breezy dresses, trouser suits and wrap dresses in vivid colours and prints were DVF's nod to the tropics. While the vibrant printed looks, stellar cast of models and celebrity front-row attendees rightly deserved all the attention, it was the designer's debut shoe collection that was the true highlight of the show.
Edun: The tribe has spoken
Frayed hems and fringing is clearly not going away anytime soon. At Edun, the swinging ornamental detail took its form in fringe-on-fringe trouser suits, dresses and oversized ponchos. Our favourite? The sleeveless red trouser suit that swayed right into our hearts. Creative director Daniella Sherman looked to the people of Kuba Kingdom and their ceremonial dance attires. In true Edun fashion, artisanal African craftwork was exquisitely woven into each look. Hand-loomed fabrics, raw linen and macramé trimmings were spun into great detail onto the '30s influenced silhouettes.
Prabal Gurung: Namaste Nepal
Four months on, the rest of the world may have long forgotten about the 7.8 magnitude earthquake that struck Nepal in April — but not Prabal Gurung. The designer opened his show with 30 Buddhist monks chanting a prayer for the Nepalese people and earthquake victims.
One would understand why Gurung would dedicate his spring/summer 2016 collection to Nepal; as a way of creating constant awareness of the relief still needed to rebuild his birth country. Colours of Nepal in sunset shades of yellow, orange and saffron surfaced in elegant and fluid ensembles. The breathtaking display of romantic dresses cut in clean shapes and delicate fabrics felt like an optimistic and heartfelt tribute to the country.
Related story: Prabal Gurung raises funds for Nepal earthquake relief
To read all our coverage on NYFW SS16, click here.