Highlights from LFW SS16 — Day 4

Final day finery

Highlights from LFW SS16 — Day 4
Burberry Prorsum's love affair with lace continues, Erdem stuns with nouveau Victoriana, Peter Pilotto plays with geometry, Giles goes Elizabethan, and Christopher Kane styles the plastic cable tie

Burbery Prorsum: All about the lace

Christopher Bailey's love affair with lace shows no signs of abating. Entitled 'Functionregalia', the Burberry Prorsum spring/summer 2016 collection (held at the purpose-built tent in London's Kensington Gardens) paired English lace with leather moto jackets and reimagined military cording on coats and trenches layered over barely-there lattice dresses and macramé shifts. And, as British singer Alison Moyet belted out heart-wrenching balads accompanied by a 32-piece orchestra, the models paraded a colour palette that was equally as sombre — think: inky blacks, dreamy nudes and bleached chalk. Stand out pieces? That dusty salmon lattice dress and the Burberry rucksack in gabardine-constructed nylon. Want to buy the collection now? You can. Check it here.  

Erdem: Sugar and spice

A cavalcade of chiffon, floral embroidery and floor-length flounced dresses, Erdem's latest offering was a romanticised Little House on a Prairie rehashed for the modern woman. A master of designing to a narrative, the designer took inspiration from the "priarie madness" of women living in the American West during the late 19th century and offered up a sweet collection rich in details (cut-out sleeves, ruffled lace, and colour-blocked crochet) replete with must-have pieces (case in point: That pale yellow coat belted with black leather). Beautiful.  

Peter Pilotto: Playful geometry

Over at Peter Pilotto, the designer's signature prints were reduced to graphic shapes — triangles, squares and circles — repeated along the thigh-high slit on dresses and as playful appliqué on the front of zip-up blousons. There was almost a gladiatorial feel to some ensembles, such as the opening wrap jacket paired with a faux fringe skirt, but counterbalanced with ethereal looks embellished with diagonally tiered ruffles and constructed from delicate lace (clearly a key trend for the season), or indeed, mid-calf skirts cut from cool seersucker, it was a collection angled at lovers not fighters.

Christopher Kane: Plastic brights

Spray-painted dresses with angular cut-outs, hand-stitched detailing on oversized woollen cardigans, and neon lace colour-blocked on shirts and separates. It can only come from the creative mastermind of Christopher Kane. An otherwise eclectic collection (check out the cartoon-like clutches) was expertly held together (quite literally) by the leitmotif of plastic cable ties — punched through a black satin dress, styled as a choker over hair, and tightened over bags straps for quirky punches of colour. Always innovative. Never boring. 

Giles: God save the Queen

With the Banqueting House in Whitehall, London, serving as the venue for his spring collection, it was clear that Giles Deacon was in a decidedly Elizabethan mood. Working with print designer David Holah, the designer slathered a full-portrait of Queen Elizabeth I across a bodysuit (worn by the incomparable Binx Walton) and applied floral motifs to billowing caftans and voluminous dresses. But it was all about the final look: A micro-pleated organza gown backed with laser-cut frilling in shifting shades of onyx and burnt chestnut. Did someone say 'frill-necked lizard'? 

To read all our coverage of London Fashion Week SS16, click here.

Text: Norman Tan

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