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Highlights from LFW SS16 — Day 4

Highlights from LFW SS16 — Day 4

Final day finery

Text: Norman Tan


Image: Getty Images

Burberry Prorsum's love affair with lace continues, Erdem stuns with nouveau Victoriana, Peter Pilotto plays with geometry, Giles goes Elizabethan, and Christopher Kane styles the plastic cable tie

Burbery Prorsum: All about the lace

Christopher Bailey's love affair with lace shows no signs of abating. Entitled 'Functionregalia', the Burberry Prorsum spring/summer 2016 collection (held at the purpose-built tent in London's Kensington Gardens) paired English lace with leather moto jackets and reimagined military cording on coats and trenches layered over barely-there lattice dresses and macramé shifts. And, as British singer Alison Moyet belted out heart-wrenching balads accompanied by a 32-piece orchestra, the models paraded a colour palette that was equally as sombre — think: inky blacks, dreamy nudes and bleached chalk. Stand out pieces? That dusty salmon lattice dress and the Burberry rucksack in gabardine-constructed nylon. Want to buy the collection now? You can. Check it here.  

Erdem: Sugar and spice

A cavalcade of chiffon, floral embroidery and floor-length flounced dresses, Erdem's latest offering was a romanticised Little House on a Prairie rehashed for the modern woman. A master of designing to a narrative, the designer took inspiration from the "priarie madness" of women living in the American West during the late 19th century and offered up a sweet collection rich in details (cut-out sleeves, ruffled lace, and colour-blocked crochet) replete with must-have pieces (case in point: That pale yellow coat belted with black leather). Beautiful.  

Peter Pilotto: Playful geometry

Over at Peter Pilotto, the designer's signature prints were reduced to graphic shapes — triangles, squares and circles — repeated along the thigh-high slit on dresses and as playful appliqué on the front of zip-up blousons. There was almost a gladiatorial feel to some ensembles, such as the opening wrap jacket paired with a faux fringe skirt, but counterbalanced with ethereal looks embellished with diagonally tiered ruffles and constructed from delicate lace (clearly a key trend for the season), or indeed, mid-calf skirts cut from cool seersucker, it was a collection angled at lovers not fighters.

Christopher Kane: Plastic brights

Spray-painted dresses with angular cut-outs, hand-stitched detailing on oversized woollen cardigans, and neon lace colour-blocked on shirts and separates. It can only come from the creative mastermind of Christopher Kane. An otherwise eclectic collection (check out the cartoon-like clutches) was expertly held together (quite literally) by the leitmotif of plastic cable ties — punched through a black satin dress, styled as a choker over hair, and tightened over bags straps for quirky punches of colour. Always innovative. Never boring. 

Giles: God save the Queen

With the Banqueting House in Whitehall, London, serving as the venue for his spring collection, it was clear that Giles Deacon was in a decidedly Elizabethan mood. Working with print designer David Holah, the designer slathered a full-portrait of Queen Elizabeth I across a bodysuit (worn by the incomparable Binx Walton) and applied floral motifs to billowing caftans and voluminous dresses. But it was all about the final look: A micro-pleated organza gown backed with laser-cut frilling in shifting shades of onyx and burnt chestnut. Did someone say 'frill-necked lizard'? 

To read all our coverage of London Fashion Week SS16, click here.