Highlights from LFW SS16 — Day 2
J.W. Anderson: Form over function
Designer Jonathan William Anderson took form and fabric — what he's known for — to whole new proportions this time. Ruching and volume were big for him, and half the collection featured tops and dresses with widely exagerrated shoulders and baggy trousers cinched at the ankle — they seemed more like costumes than clothes. Meanwhile, the other half bared skin with bralets, semi-sheer fabric and again, ruching that offset an otherwise racy ensemble. Anderson has never been one to embrace a slinky silhouette, and drove home his point this spring that perception is truly beholden to form above anything else.
Simone Rocha: Victorian romance
Lipstick red: Simone Rocha's scarlet thread in her last few seasons, but not this time around. There was no dark beauty in sculpted pieces either. Held at the Lancaster House, the largely delicate (much like the characters in literature of the Victorian era) collection unfolded in front of a gilded backdrop, where saccharine floral flouncy dresses were reined in slightly by braided ropes draped diagonally across the upper. Sparkly embellished sheer stockings and a-line cuts added to the mix of girlish sweetness.
We truly saw Rocha — and not just a glimpse — when the heavy structured dresses came on along with latticed pieces. And yes, she couldn't resist her white lace numbers reimagined for the season. Our absolute favourite? The dress with the asymmetric hem and gaping hole (image 5). In contrast to the collection's sweet beginnings, it's almost dystopic, and delightfully so.
House of Holland: Young, wild and free
Guests wise, you know who to expect with the circles Henry Holland runs in. Alexa Chung, Poppy Delevingne, Daisy Lowe and Nick Grimshaw — London's in-crowd — were the usual fixtures at the House of Holland show. Chung even left her seat and approached the models during the finale — talk about a tight-knit friendship. Seating was not the usual affair; it was stacked upwards and ran by levels much like an opera house, minus the grandiose and plus a smattering of sand.
The spring collection Fear and Loafing was a mash-up of safari, sporty, beachy and '70s vibes. In summary? Holland says to wear whatever you very well please. A safari jacket with cheetah-printed, suede and leather panelling was layered over a striped Warholian turtleneck, and a Hawaiian print utilitarian romper matched knee high sports socks. These were just some of the clashing themes Holland minced into SS16, along with fishing hats.
Versus: Seriously sexy
If Anthony Vaccarello managed a sexy yet sleek fall/winter 2015 collection, he'll manage a sexy yet sleek SS16 collection — no questions asked. And so, don't let the first few looks fool you. The jacket-skirt and bomber jacket with trousers (menswear) combis did not last. It was only a matter of time before the shine, skin and hardware came on and seduced the audience — which included Christopher Kane (who has previously designed an accessories capsule for the brand) and FKA Twigs.
Heavy-set metal hip belts accompanied plunging necklines, dresses that almost showed more skin than it covered and patent leather everything summed up spring for Versus. What took us by surprise were the floral denim pieces together with contrasting dark elegant floral ensembles. Is Vaccarello switching it up for Versus? He definitely has our attention now.
For all coverage of spring/summer 2016 ready-to-wear, click here.