Our favourite accessories at Fendi, Prada and Max Mara, plus other highlights at Milan Fashion Week
Journey to America
MAX MARA: DON'T TELL ME WHAT TO DO
No one has ever doubted the empowered Max Mara woman — after all, it's a song designer founder Achille Maramotti has sung for decades. Fall/winter sees her more defiant than ever; a point made by the leather suspenders (some no-nonsense, some bejeweled), rockstar tees layered under sheer sweaters, and the stacking of leopard prints in varied proportions. Pairing those with leather trousers and leather trousers only would be a predictable move, and what kind of radical maverick would she be if she was formulaic? No, creative director Ian Griffiths also dressed the 2018 working woman in voluminous checkered wool skirts, blush pink slip maxis and 'M' diamante hair pins, tucking behind slick hair as though to say, "I'm going to conquer the world and I'm going to do it while I shimmer."
FENDI: AMERICAN DREAM
Never mind the cobblestone streets outside Via Solari 35. Fendi has left Milan for the United States. Supertramp's 'Breakfast In America' was on loudspeaker, and Western were the monochromatic ethnic fringing, cowboy bandanas and boots — snakeskin, with a double Cuban heel, sometimes dyed in blue. Yowza. When the collection returned to Italy, it was Rome it headed home to as evidenced by the Catholic cape frameworks — frankly, just slightly reminiscent of Valentino, only Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi's are boxy for a masculine disposition, especially when assembled with pleated argyle silk dresses, belted of course,and wool chevron skirts, white collars peeking out. Interestingly, this is the second show so far (behind Gucci) to make references at the troubled nation. Knowing the political and social climate of our far away neighbour, the world could really use some good old road trip escapism.
PRADA: CALL THE SECURITY
Fondazione Prada is a work of art. The fall/winter 2018 show venue behind it however, fell short of that accreditation. About a hundred showgoers were left stranded on the ground floor, awaiting elevators that wouldn't come. Security barricaded the stairs, negating the option of traveling by foot up five floors. Tick tock. Tick tock. Waiting isn't chic. Thankfully, the collection was. Sheer organza bows floating around the neck. Sleeveless construction site puffer jackets accessorized with security tags. Rubber boots held up by nylon drawstrings. Shearling trimmed leather jackets with spray painted pockets. PVC fringed bustiers, midi skirts and sheath dresses. Twill bucket hats and matching knitted shirt dresses. All in acidic neon Stabilo colourblocks, all destined to be a hit with clients and critics alike. The thunderous applause at the finale is still ringing in our ears. We minded the sweltering heat in the show space, but really, we don't mind the applause one bit. Miuccia Prada probably doesn't either.
All coverage of Milan fashion week fall/winter 2018.