Show reviews: Highlights from PFW fall/winter 2016 — Day 9
Paris Fashion Week
LOUIS VUITTON: SUBMERGED STREETWEAR
The location: A custom-built set behind the Fondation Louis Vuitton reminiscent of the Lost City of Atlantis — made from 57 columns and countless mirrors — constructed in collaboration with French artist, Justin Morin.
The collection: The casualisation of fashion continues unabated, with Nicolas Ghesquière referencing streetwear and athletic apparel to deliver his most wearable, yet directional, offering to date. There was a certain inexorable nature to the whole show; a relentless march forward as models exited with lug-soled boots anchoring silk dresses and separates cast in traditional scarf prints (looks 2, 3 and 7); colour-blocked knit shifts layered over midi-length ruffled dresses (looks 21, 24 and 27); and, proposing a new truncated silhouette, corset-like waistcoats and blazers — with exaggerated hips — that closed with asymmetrical zips (looks 41, 42, 45 and 46).
I spy: In-your-face (quite literally) headgear by way of fur trooper hats with elongated ear flaps (looks 38 and 39). Flying nun, anyone?
MIU MIU: ALL GROWN-UP
The collection: Miu Miu has always been positioned as the younger, more-daring — albeit 'cuter' — collection to the more grown-up and cerebral Prada label. To place it in the Gossip Girl universe, Miu Miu is for Blair Waldorf whilst Prada is for her entrepreneurial mother, and fashion designer, Eleanor Waldorf. But for fall/winter 2016, it looks like the Miu Miu girl has grown up. Taking to the catwalk were maxi skirts cut from vintage floral tapestry (looks 18, 19 and 20) and sumptuous velvet brocade (looks 23, 35 and 48) paired with cardigans and single-string pearl necklaces; and a plethora of elongated outerwear crafted from diverse fabrications including denim (looks 6 and 11), tweed (look 25) and waked canvas (looks 33 and 34). Further proof that it's high time (if you haven't already) to invest in a long billowing coat.
Try this at home: Incorporating a wide '70s belt to finish off your ensemble; cinched tightly at the waist over coats, blazers and cardigans in a contrasting colour and floral pattern.
Favourite look: That patchworked denim shirt (embellished with beaded appliqué on the chest pockets and epaulets) tucked into a pair of high-waisted metallic brocade shorts in look 46. There's some sex appeal in the Miu Miu girl yet.
For all coverage of Paris Fashion Week fall/winter 2016, click here.