Best shows from New York Men's Fashion Week SS18: David Hart, Daniel Hechter and Private Policy
DAVID HART: ON ISLAND TIME
The collection: Taking after the sights and shades of Havana in the 1950s, David Hart's latest collection, the aptly named "Tourism in Cuba", drew upon pastel colours, tailored linen suits and trousers with rolled cuffs for breezy, easy, resort styles. Whether through oversize pockets slapped on shirts in tropical motifs (bananas, anyone?) or structured straw hats (looks 2 and 5), David Hart recreated the uniforms synonymous with dance halls and convertible cars of the island's past. The touch of vintage elegance found in the high-shine dinner jackets (looks 3 and 18), cotton and silk scarves styled as ties (looks 4, 8, 16, 17, 19) and lest you miss it, the cigars resting in front pockets, further elevated what would have already been a covetable dossier of Sunday bests.
Buro loves: The short-sleeved banana-print shirts (looks 6 and 7) and cigar-rose-babe in bathing suit prints on the scarves (looks 4 and 11) serve as intriguing winks to the tropics.
Try this now: Toms shoes with a linen suit (look 9).
DANIEL HECHTER: CLASS IN SESSION
The collection: Another day, another prep reference. This time, Daniel Hechter's freshman jock went downtown. Christophe Blodin-Pechabrier' first New York Fashion Week: Men's outing saw big buttons (looks 9 and 15), trim chinos (looks 4 and 6) and good-boy dress shirts peeking out of crewneck sweaters (look 5). They all scream the kind of simple collegiate look that retains its elegance across timezones over timestamps. But while the blazers in shades of blue and stale gray grounded his spring/summer 2018 in class, the designer's bright windbreaker (look 19) and branded sweatshirt (look 13) rendered the age-old new again.
I spy: Sleeves have been rolled for many a season. Now, it's time to do the same on trousers of all variations — whether denim, sweat, or chino (looks 1, 5 and 7).
Try this now: Thin fabric belts fastened across the hip, over printed short-shorts (look 11).
PRIVATE POLICY: DON'T DREAM IT'S OVER
The collection: Citing the current turbulent political climate, Private Policy designers Haoran Li and Siying Qu created a capsule collection inspired by the collapse of the American dream. Modern pieces such as the male romper (looks 2 and 9) came together with retro elements such as the denim vest (look 6) and leather cowboy boots (looks 9, 10 and 11) to send a message both flamboyant and intense. Amidst loud detailing by way of metal clasps and grommets (looks 1 and 2), triangular collars (looks 2 and 4) and matching shorts and blazer (look 10), was the pièce de résistance: A medieval-meets-metallic, cut-out pink track suit baring nude shorts (look 12).
Buro loves: Though undeniably splashy, the collection also featured striped shirts (look 3) and zippered sweatshirts (looks 1 and 7) suitable for the everyday.
Something you might have missed: Sex is in. Most of the shorts and trousers from Private Policy's SS18 came with suspender straps (looks 1, 4 and 5).
All coverage of men's fashion week spring 2018.