Rules? What rules? Craig Green and Vivienne Westwood rebel at LFWM SS18
London Fashion Week Men's
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD: GUMPTION, IN SPADES
The inspiration: Eco-fashion, the surprising sartorial pulse felt steadily through the last few days in London, went literal on Vivienne Westwood's spring/summer 2018 runway. Her social activism was on full display; her visual call for a harsh examination of the very real climate drama happening on her shores and that of her American neighbours, timed to perfection.
The collection: What emerges from the collision of punk persuasion and politics? Statements both graphic and verbose. Westwood highlighted our own carbon footprint through a charcoal printed sweater — of a foot, naturally. Fishnet stockings sealed garbage (yes, garbage) on the models' persons. We spotted Evian bottles, crushed cups and cans, plastic packaging among other recyclables. Aprons, skirts and dresses spoke loudest: "U R part of the creative process from which all things arise + pass away".
Something you might have missed: Vivienne Westwood knows how to make an entrance. Or was it an exit? Nevermind the six-inch platforms that most 16-year-olds wobble in, or even the cursive "Mother f*cker" emblazoned on her T-shirt" — the 76-year-old bid London Fashion Week Men's a farewell atop the shoulders of a male model. Keep doing you, Westwood. Everyone else will catch up.
CRAIG GREEN: IN ONE OF HIS MOODS
The inspiration: Futility is an attempt at deciphering the coded mind of one Craig Green. Backstage, he began his interview with journalists reciting his obsession with the idea of a tortured paradise. Sun beams and the tropics over a haunting soundtrack complete with an extract of Cannibal Holocaust. Intriguing, but okay. Then came the offbeat open-ended question, "You know when you dissect frogs at school?" when explaining the avant-garde fixture affixed on look 1 and 12. Yet, it is in his emotional disposition do we find a moody coherence anchoring the 30-look collection. We don't quite get it, but maybe that's the point. Some clothes are meant to be felt, not thought.
The collection: The newly minted British Menswear Designer of the Year peppered his collection with denim — Green's first foray — in classic hues. The slouchy fabric dipped in blue, black, indigo and white dyes are presented alongside rope-bound skintight tops, fraying asymmetric sweaters and Green's own arc reactor jerseys.
Wear this now: The larger-than-life Japanese blanket scarves. Our favourites are those seen on look 28 and 30.