Rules? What rules? Craig Green and Vivienne Westwood rebel at LFWM SS18

London Fashion Week Men's

Rules? What rules? Craig Green and Vivienne Westwood rebel at LFWM SS18
Emotions run high on the last day of London Fashion Week Men's

The inspiration: Eco-fashion, the surprising sartorial pulse felt steadily through the last few days in London, went literal on Vivienne Westwood's spring/summer 2018 runway. Her social activism was on full display; her visual call for a harsh examination of the very real climate drama happening on her shores and that of her American neighbours, timed to perfection.

The collection: What emerges from the collision of punk persuasion and politics? Statements both graphic and verbose. Westwood highlighted our own carbon footprint through a charcoal printed sweater — of a foot, naturally. Fishnet stockings sealed garbage (yes, garbage) on the models' persons. We spotted Evian bottles, crushed cups and cans, plastic packaging among other recyclables. Aprons, skirts and dresses spoke loudest: "U R part of the creative process from which all things arise + pass away".

Something you might have missed: Vivienne Westwood knows how to make an entrance. Or was it an exit? Nevermind the six-inch platforms that most 16-year-olds wobble in, or even the cursive "Mother f*cker" emblazoned on her T-shirt" — the 76-year-old bid London Fashion Week Men's a farewell atop the shoulders of a male model. Keep doing you, Westwood. Everyone else will catch up.

The inspiration: Futility is an attempt at deciphering the coded mind of one Craig Green. Backstage, he began his interview with journalists reciting his obsession with the idea of a tortured paradise. Sun beams and the tropics over a haunting soundtrack complete with an extract of Cannibal Holocaust. Intriguing, but okay. Then came the offbeat open-ended question, "You know when you dissect frogs at school?" when explaining the avant-garde fixture affixed on look 1 and 12. Yet, it is in his emotional disposition do we find a moody coherence anchoring the 30-look collection. We don't quite get it, but maybe that's the point. Some clothes are meant to be felt, not thought.

The collection: The newly minted British Menswear Designer of the Year peppered his collection with denim — Green's first foray — in classic hues. The slouchy fabric dipped in blue, black, indigo and white dyes are presented alongside rope-bound skintight tops, fraying asymmetric sweaters and Green's own arc reactor jerseys. 

Wear this now: The larger-than-life Japanese blanket scarves. Our favourites are those seen on look 28 and 30.

To see all the live action as it unfolds, add us on Instagram — @buro247singapore

Check out our full coverage of 

Related articles

Buro 24/7 Selection

Text: Jolene Khor

Download more