Best shows from LFW FW18: David Koma, Christopher Kane and Erdem
London Fashion Week: Day 4
DAVID KOMA: NIGHTTIME GLAMOUR
The inspiration: Referencing the work of ethnographic photographer Edward Curtis, Georgian-born David Koma looked to Native American dress for inspiration.
The collection: Though opened with a structured all-black ensemble, the collection soon ventured out of his monochrome zone with Koma dabbling into shades of oxblood red and violet. What stole the show were those chrome spheres that Koma used generous amounts of, which meant more than half of these looks are 100% night time-appropriate. Fringe lined halter necklines, and sliced dresses were stapled with round mirrored discs — this was evening wear with a twist.
Spotted in the front row: Supermodels Jourdan Dunn and Lara Stone were sat next to Edward Enninful, editor-in-chief of British Vogue.
CHRISTOPHER KANE: SEX ED
The collection: If opening looks are meant to preempt you for what's to come, Christopher Kane's show outrightly broke this rule. The ultra-large lapel coat served no hint for what was to come in this collection, until the slow introduction of doily lace appeared on the runway. Pieces didn't necessarily get progressively exposed, but the lineup certainly dialed up the erotic charge the moment Chris Foss' graphic illustrations appeared on nude silk slips. "I have never shied away from sex in the collections — and this one is no different," says Kane. "Since the beginning, I have found it fundamental to our idea of women; women with their own power who create their own worlds and are in charge of them." Nothing 'Fifty Shades' here, just an unadulterated celebration of sexuality.
Buro loves: That "More Joy" structured sweater (look 36). The slogan itself holds a multitude of interpretations. Be it a subtle signal to a special someone, or an assertive call for optimism, slogan-wear is proof that you are indeed what you wear.
Special note: Remember the controversial Croc collaboration that divided the sartorial world? Well, Kane has moved on to — if possible — even more comfortable kicks, with orthopedic footwear company, Z-Coil. Ugly shoes that promise comfort? We're on board.
ERDEM: ROMANTIC BRAVERY
The collection: Taking the opulence of the Roaring Twenties, flapper details were woven into the tapestry that was the tale of Adele Astaire, vaudeville dancer-turned aristocrat, a.k.a. Moralioglu's muse of the season. Sheer polka dot tulle was the unifying element of the collection, iterated in the form of veils, slip tops and slouchy leggings. Heavy tweed and corduroy numbers helped add texture to the otherwise one-dimensional retelling of Adele's story. Marrying masculine shapes with intricate brocade, we foresee the royal likes of Kate Middleton and Meaghan Markle donning these pieces very soon.
In the FROW: Soft-rock sisters HAIM, Felicity Jones and Daisy Lowe were amongst the star-studded guestlist at the National Portrait Gallery.
Something you might have missed: Hold your horses, Erdem devotees. This season's drop also marks the unveiling of a collaboration with NARS. Having worked with NARS for numerous seasons now, this collaboration is a long time coming and rest assured, it's Erdem through and through — complete with floral motifs and horticultural shades.
All coverage from London Fashion Week fall/winter 2018.