Paris Fashion Week fall/winter 2019: Dior’s feminism and sisterhood
Finding inspiration in the British Teddy Girls of the Fifties for FW19, artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri reinterprets Dior's New Look with a sporty appeal, as her signature feminist T-shirt quotes poet Robin Morgan: ‘Sisterhood is Forever’.
Silk-screened t-shirts pay homage to the literary works of American feminist poet and activist, Robin Morgan (who was supposedly present in the audience), with elements from ‘Sisterhood is Powerful’ (1970), ‘Sisterhood is Global' (1984) and ‘Sisterhood is Forever’ (2003), celebrating sorority.
Familiar full tulle skirts are worn with low-heeled tapered shoes while evening dresses come in the form of bodysuits and skirts embroidered with translucent sequins or embellished with 3D blooms. These pretty girlish looks are well-balanced by dandy elements such as classic tailoring, drop-crotch trousers, leather jackets and faded denim.
A new palm tree version of Toile de Jouy recalls the work of artist Mario Schifano, and the motif appears on a series of shirts and Dior Book Tote bags.
These hats are not going away, in fact Chiuri had them accessorised with every look, some with veil accents above the brims (adoringly chic). A few looks were matched with beige animal-print hats. The science is clear. Global warming is happening. We could really embrace this trend - bucket hats are functional and surprisingly... cute. Hat aficionados, rejoice.
Plaids and ginghams, in black and red, green and back, or black and white, seem to offer a new perspective on the mix of classicism and subversion, elegance and rebellion, inherent in English culture.
Monsieur Dior’s nipped-waist silhouettes have been revisited, with Chiuri taking a step further by infusing the 50s with the spirit of ‘sportswear’.
Greeted by Italian artist Tomaso Binga, a woman who signed her work in the 1970s with a masculine pseudonym as a way of parodying male privileges, she read a poem (in Italian, no less) about feminist victory before the show started. Her work portrays females in the nude (some of them are of her younger self) posing in the shapes of alphabets, surrounded the set of Dior runway at Musée Rodin. Each letter represents a different woman and reflects a new chapter for the maison’s #abcdior.
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