Audio review: Christian Dior fall/winter 2017 show
Paris fashion week
The first runway show by a new creative director sets the tone, but it's the second outing that cements the vision. For artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior, her second bite of the ready-to-wear womenswear cherry proved to be as sweet as the first, establishing an aesthetic that is undeniably more relaxed and sportier than her predecessor Raf Simons; albeit for this fall/winter 2017 season, her collection was cast in a darker, more hypnotic, hue: Navy blue.
"Among all the colors, navy blue is the only one which can ever compete with black, it has all the same qualities," read the show notes — a reference to Christian Dior's notes in The Little Dictionary of — and with that Chiuri sent out an army of beret wearing models in varying shades of black and blue. Just like her debut SS17 collection for Dior in September, model Ruth Bell opened the show; but instead of wearing a fencing-inspired white ensemble, she sported a navy blue hooded pullover, belted at the waist, paired with a matching straight-cut trouser. Gone were last season's logo tees inspiring all of us to be feminists, and in their place, a series of jackets, capes and coats reimaged with an ample hood — a nod to her haute couture show held in the exact same venue (Musée Rodin) just a month prior that showcased a strong Riding Hood inspiration.
On one end of the spectrum, blue was presented with an almost regal elegance by way of degradé floral tulle gowns and plush velvet dresses (embellished with Chiuri's penchant for galaxy sequin embroidery); whilst, on the other, the democracy of blue was also demonstrated through its reference to workwear in the form of Canadian tuxedos (that is, double-denim ensembles) and washed denim jumpsuits. Favourite look? That closing look of a glistening silk taffeta gown layered over a full-length top shimmering with sequins, and topped off with a leather beret — definitely the must-have accessory for next season.
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SEE YOU TOMORROW:
Stay tuned, and come back daily, as Norman Tan continues his on-the-go audio reviews of the best shows from Paris fashion week for the fall/winter 2017 season.
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