Charming and free-spirited, Longchamp’s fall/winter 2020 collection is a slice of Paris in the Big Apple
Longchamp may be a French brand but its designs are decidedly for the modern, global citizen. After all, this season is creative director Sophie Delafontaine's fourth collection she's presenting at New York Fashion Week. The collection has just grown bigger, with accessories still a focus, but the clothing making a mark of their own.
So, what's a Parisian woman in America to wear? For one, the Longchamp woman looks to the '70s for plenty of inspiration. This is a decade that Delafontaine oft references, thanks to the era's free-spiritedness and the rise of style icons like Catherine Deneuve, Romy Schneider and Stéphane Audran, all who pioneered an individualistic point of view in fashion.
The idea of self-expression can be seen clearly in the statement-making pieces that walked the runway. From bomber jackets with shearling collars, crochet numbers, gauzy dresses with embroidery to dresses with Meccano print, it's apparent that this is no collection for the wallflower, but for the woman who wants to make a statement. In fact, we would go as far as to say that the layered looks — made up of many remarkable and intricate pieces — would shine just as bright (or even brighter), when styled with simpler pieces from the everyday woman's wardrobe.
A colour symphony consisting of terracotta, cognac, and forest green formed an autumnal palette that's reminiscent of the vivid colour-blocked artwork of Josef Albers. It was also inspired by the deconstructed automobile sculptures of John Chamberlain, and references the uniforms of race car drivers, as well as the speed, agility and structure associated with their silhouettes.
To the delight of showgoers, the iconic Le Pliage was presented this season two ways: incredibly oversized, and on trend with a micro style. The signature bamboo hardware Roseau was also given a lift in terms of volume, and this season, Delafontaine has brought back a beloved style she herself used to sport as a young girl: the Longchamp 1980. Worn crossbody, the rounded rectangular shape opened the show in a deep red snakeskin style, and was repeatedly shown in different variations across the collection.
The looks were finished with heeled knee-high boots in patent red, green and black leather — a fall favourite that's been given a bit of an update with a chain and ball detailing — bringing together Delafontaine's cohesive vision of Parisian je nai se quois in the Big Apple.