Just in: Review of Burberry’s last seasonal FW16 show
A patchwork of influences
The location and musical act: British singer-songwriter Jake Bugg set a melancholic tone in the custom built tent in London's Kensington Gardens — peppered with long green velvet ottomans backed by pastel pink curtains; the very same palette used for the show invites — as he played solo on his acoustic guitar in the centre of the runway, delivering his first live performance of his latest track, On My One.
The collection: Attended by the British fashion gentry that included the likes of Naomi Campbell, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Alexa Chung, Suki Waterhouse and Nicholas Hoult, Christopher Bailey sent out a confident march of ensembles characterised by glossy python, geometric jacquards and metallic florals; but all tempered with a structured regimental silhouette. It was a continuation of Bailey's fall 2016 menswear collection (with key men's looks, including that red sequined tracksuit top making another appearance on the runway) and, as such, possessed a certain streetwear sensibility and punk edge. Definitely his most gritty, and undeniably covetable, collection to date since he took over the dual roles of chief creative and chief executive officer in May 2014. Highlights include that opening look of a billowing navy peacoat worn over a geometric green minidress and black herringbone stockings pulled off by a badass Edie Campbell; that killer trench coat in slick python with contrast teal collars worn by Lineisy Montero (look 3); and that metallic pink midi-dress cut from lightweight lamé with high contrast slits in a punchy mustard yellow python (look 78).
Buro loves: Making their debut on the runway, we took an immediate fancy to the Patchwork shoulder bag (inspired by the belt buckle form the brand's iconic trench coat), and the new Buckle Boot available in snakeskin and rubberised leather as inspired by the classic Wellington boot (especially those punctuated with metal studs and fringe kilting). Definitely the new 'it' accessories to watch.
Try this at home: A new statement silhouette as proffered by large mid-thigh coats cinched tightly at the waist. Case in point: That voluminous puffer jacket in glossy technical down shell with an ivory shearling collar, cinched tight at the waist with a patchworked python belt (look 18), and that navy duffle coat with Parade red piping and exaggerated collars, pulled in with an orange check belt (look 30).
Runway to retail: Almost like a trial-run to the upcoming September 2016 show — which will, in a revolutionary move, be immediately available for purchase online and in-store globally after the runway — this February 2016 women's wear collection is now on display at the London Regent Street flagship, and will also move to the Burberry Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré store in Paris on 1 March. Another clever initiative by Bailey to put the consumer at the front-and-centre of the whole runway-to-retail experience.
Click on the gallery below to view the full collection.
For all coverage of London Fashion Week fall/winter 2016, click here.