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Best shows from NYFWM FW18: Tom Ford, BOSS and Palmiers du Mal

Best shows from NYFWM FW18: Tom Ford, BOSS and Palmiers du Mal

New York Fashion Week Men's: Day 3

Text: Veronika Bondarenko


Tom Ford embarks on his first menswear runway, BOSS hits a home run with baseball inspired ensembles and Palmiers du Mal taps on an old world persuasion

TOM FORD: GLAMMING UP, DRESSING DOWN
The collection: If it's not glam, it's not Tom Ford. The designer premiered his first standalone menswear runway with flashy pieces like the lamé snake print blazer (look 10) and bright pink suits with winged lapels (looks 33 and 34). While some saw the slim-fitting suits as a throwback to the designer's days at Gucci and YSL, the runway was also a nod to Ford's two favorite fashion cities. London inspired the crisp tailoring and use of tweed while LA's kitsch came through in pieces like the tight snake print trousers and matching boots (look 1). Alas, it was the finale that truly brought the audience to a still — the models came out wearing only socks, watches and Ford's newest collection of boxer briefs in nudes, metallics and animal prints. Yowza.

The mood: With the scent of Ford's Tobacco Vanille cologne in the air and a long and sprawling lilac carpet at one's feet, the Park Avenue Armory was cinematically transformed.

Something you might have missed: Ford's signature furs were noticeably absent from the runway this season; the move coincides with the designer's choice to start a new plant-based diet.

HUGO BOSS: FOR THE LOVE OF SPORTS
The collection: Calling all sports lovers. In an athletic take on the brand's classic masculine style, the BOSS design team turned to tapered crop pants (looks 10, 20 and 24) and baseball jackets (18 and 24) for its latest collection. Along with patterned turtlenecks (looks 17 and 21) and a bright yellow trench (look 22), pieces that stood out included sprawling capes (look 29) and ponchos (look 23). But even in a look that focused on the laid-back, sharp cuts and expert tailoring brought the garments to their usual top shelf element. Fitted blazers (looks 2 and 4), dark wool coats (looks 1 and 3) and button-down shirts (looks 14 and 25) provided the perfect mix of sporty style and classic Americana.

Upon closer inspection: Embroidered baseball bat, player and ball designs (looks 21, 23 and 24) are found on several coats and sweaters in the collection.

Front row: Armie Hammer of the Oscar-nominated film Call Me by Your Name and teen star Dylan Sprouse were spotted among other guests.

PALMIERS DU MAL: THE ANIMAL WITHIN
The collection: A mid-century lounge may seem like an unlikely source of inspiration for a show, but that is precisely what went through designer Shane Fonner's head for his latest. Dark shawn-collared jackets (looks 2 and 9), a knit poncho (look 3) and some navy plaid (looks 3 and 6) gave the collection a dark, sensuous style. Whether through cow print loafers or a tiger print bomber jacket, animal prints were also featured prominently on the runway. Mirroring the mystery, some of the most daring pieces included a black jumpsuit with a deep v-neck plunge (look 9) and an all-white look of an oversized white faux fur coat paired with white jeans and a white blouse (look 5). 

The backdrop: The iconic New York Mondrian Hotel served as the backdrop for models who lounged on couches in pieces from the collection.

Try this now: Animal print looks that much better with plaid (look 6). 

All coverage from New York Fashion Week: Men's fall/winter 2018.

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